Apogee Alto Pinot Gris 2021
A fabulous expression of Tasmanian Pinot Gris here showing both power and complexity in a dry and juicy style. Dr Andrew Pirie has been trialling a range of styles for his Apogee Pinot Gris since the first vintage back in 2012, and this is the best I can recall. It is a belter and I reckon it also has the stuffing to age well.
Pale in colour, the aromas are beautifully bright and pure – pear flesh and musk with delicate spiciness and unusual precision and focus for the variety. There is power but also subtlety that demands a second sniff. On the palate it then shows good richness matched by fine, cleansing acidity so almost a halfway house between Gris and Grigio, as sometimes seen in the best Italian styles from Northern Italy. There is a youthful energy too, and faint grip for structure before a long finish making this a complete package for fans of the variety.