MT Wines is the brand of winemaker Marco Tovazzi and his wife Portia. Marco originally hails from Trento in the north-eastern Italian region of Trentino-Alto Adige. The name nods both to his own initials and to Monte Bondone, the imposing mountain which shadows his birthplace. 

It was in Trento where Marco first gained experience as a winemaker, as well as in Chianti in Tuscany, before moving to New Zealand. Vintages soon followed in Adelaide Hills, Barossa Valley, Hunter Valley and the Granite Belt, after which he joined Hoddles Creek Estate in 2015. 

MT Wines was created in 2017, giving Marco and Portia a chance to make wines ‘that are [a] true reflection of the sites on which the grapes are grown’. A while ago I tried and was incredibly impressed with Marco’s 2019 Chardonnay and Shiraz and I’m happy to say that his wines continue to be excellent.

MT Wines Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2021
95 Points – $26

Grapes were sourced from Bulong Estate in the Upper Yarra. Crushed, destemmed and pressed directly to tank, the wine was aged on lees for 10 months in a mix of three to five-year-old oak with light fining and filtration before bottling.

I liked this wine as soon as I drew the glass towards my nose. It first presents with bright peach and citrus, with some wet stone and hay arriving a touch later. There’s a bit of struck-match reduction upon opening but that blows off pretty quickly with some air. 

As much as I liked the nose, the palate is breathtaking. It’s silky, oily and unctuous, almost like a dessert wine but without the sweetness. The fruit continues and it’s joined by some light toastiness and a touch of nuttiness, like from a freshly opened packet of macadamias. A truly beautiful wine that reflects its Yarra Valley origins and which will continue to evolve for years to come.

MT Wines Heathcote Sangiovese 2019
93 Points – $28

Grapes were sourced from Camelback Vineyard in Heathcote. Destemmed, cold soaked, then fermentation/maceration for two and a half weeks before aging in neutral French oak for 18 months.

It’s probably no surprise that an Italian winemaker, now in Australia after working in Chianti, would make a Sangiovese. This is not as flamboyant as the Chardonnay or Shiraz, being a little more shy on the nose and palate. It has aromas of dark and red cherry plus tomato leaf, and a touch of liquorice, with some tertiary mushroom, leather and tobacco, too, as well as a surprising hint of musk. 

The wine is brooding and juicy in the mouth, with chalky tannins and medium acid. While my original score was 91, I gave it an extra two points after pairing it with some bolognese, which gelled exceptionally with the savoury elements of the wine, while also helping to highlight the red fruits some more, so I highly recommend making this a dinner wine to show its best.

MT Wines Heathcote Shiraz 2021
95 Points – $30

Grapes from the Shiraz Republic Vineyard in Heathcote. Destemmed, cold soaked, then fermentation/maceration for three weeks. Matured in 10% new Hungarian and 90% old French oak for 10 months with no fining or filtration before bottling.

Heathcote Shiraz can be an unwieldy beast, clonking you in the face with tannin, alcohol and flavour, but sometimes without the subtlety. What I liked about the MT Wines Heathcote Shiraz was how it constantly changed as it breathed, revealing different aspects of its personality gradually. There’s a multitude of fruits – blueberry, blackberry, mulberry, raspberry – and loads of herbs and spice – mint, cinnamon, pepper, liquorice – with some meatiness starting to come through, and well-integrated oak in the guise of vanilla and toast. 

It’s sappy and bright, with a depth of flavour that cuts through piquant dishes. I was a little intrigued to see how the 15%ABV would play out in the wine, but it merges seamlessly, particularly with food. I’ve given it 95 points now but I think it will score even more in years to come as it’s still quite a baby.