At the end of the last (sigh again) Family of Twelve Tutorial in 2019, I was generously hosted by the Peabody family. For two days, I stayed in their luxurious river cottage, overlooking the Tukituki River on one side and the dramatic Te Mata Peak on the other. It felt as though I had stepped inside a scene from The Lord of the Rings. What struck me most, however, was the family’s incredible attention to detail, from the meticulously curated lawns to the pristine vineyards, the delicious food served at their restaurant, and, of course, the wines.
Fast forward to 2024, which marks the 25th anniversary of planting Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir in their Martinborough vineyard. Although there has been a change of guard in the winemaking team since my visit, it seems clear that “business as usual” is no exaggeration.
Craggy Range chief winemaker Ben Tombs reflects: “For me, this vintage carries another kind of significance; it’s the first I’ve had the privilege of guiding as Chief Winemaker. Since joining Craggy Range in 2021, what our Te Muna vineyard offers still astonishes me: nuance, wildness, and charm”.
That sense of purpose extends beyond the wines. Craggy Range has deepened its commitment to sustainability, embracing drone spraying to minimise soil compaction, adaptive canopy management informed by Sentek soil moisture probes and Athena infrared sensors, and increased under-vine organic practices. Back at Craggy Range winery in 2019, it was also my first time trying halloumi. I love that so much ever since, but unfortunately, I’m unable to replicate the way Casey McDonald, Cuisine Chef of the Year, served it.
2024 Craggy Range Te Muna Sauvignon Blanc
95 pts | RRP: $37
Sourced from several parcels on the stony, limestone-influenced soils of the Martinborough Terrace. The nose is remarkably intense, with frozen lime and a lift of jalapeño adding a subtle spiciness. Layers of passion fruit, pineapple, and pulpy mango follow, interwoven with a delicate garden pea note that imparts a gentle herbal edge. It’s a little like sipping a mojito on a tropical beach; refreshing, vibrant, and inviting. On the palate, the interplay of spice, citrus, and tropical fruit is carried by a thirst-quenching acidity, finishing dry and persistent. Everything here is so finely judged that, if Sauvignon Blanc from this part of the world must be taken in small doses, this bottle is one you’ll happily return to again and again.
2024 Craggy Range Te Muna Road Pinot Noir
95 pts | RRP: $65
Te Muna, meaning “secret place” in Maori, is rooted in complex soils of fine silty loam over gravelly river stone and ancient volcanic ash. In the glass, the vibrant purple hue immediately captures the eye, while the nose bursts with freshly picked red berries, cranberries and strawberries, lifted by a hint of pink peppercorn and subtle vinosity. There’s a delicate touch of whipped cream and Tahitian vanilla adding charm. On the palate, it’s super-coiled and energetic, dense with fruit yet lively. Tannins are slowly building, with a fine grip at the back, framing a luxurious bouquet of red fruits enriched by oak-derived spice and cherries dipped in milk chocolate. At present, it shows restless vitality, a wine with a pulse, yet its exuberance is part of the appeal.
