Cumulus and Quilty & Gransden

They say that Disneyland is the happiest place on earth. Perhaps, but I would suggest that the Australian wine industry is the friendliest place. Where else would an entity not only permit valued employees to set up in opposition but support and encourage them? And continue to employ them!

Marty Gransden and Russ Quility are long term fixtures in the Australian wine industry, both currently working with Cumulus Vineyards (and Tamburlaine Organic Wines since their recent purchase of the Vineyards). In the past, they have also been involved with wineries such as Tyrrells, Nepenthe and Lowe. There would not be too many wine lovers in Australia who have not enjoyed the fruits of their labours. Marty is originally from the Orange region while Russ hails from the Hunter.

Marty and Russ have now joined forces to create Quilty & Gransden, their own small operation, whilst remaining an integral part of Cumulus and Tamburlaine. The expertise of both Marty and Russ is seen especially in the vineyards. Marty has expressed a mission to make alternative varieties part of the mainstream and has been quoted as saying “I think it’s time to explore more varieties that suit our climate, because it’s changing.” At this stage, Q&G is looking very much to the usual suspects, while ensuring that their wines express flavour and regionality, while representing great value.

Both gentlemen love the Orange region and what the fruit can offer. Vineyards here must sit higher than 600 metres above sea level and this provides attributes not enjoyed elsewhere. In reality, the Q&G operation is miniscule in comparison to those such as Cumulus but it is nonetheless, a most welcome addition, showing the world the quality that can be found in wines from the Orange region.

Quilty & Gransden Sauvignon Blanc 2020
88 Points

The first in a new collection of wines from Orange (as opposed to orange wines), taking advantage of the rich volcanic soil in the region, and the altitude. The wines are different because of this and worth a look. This Savvy was sourced from three separate parcels, picked at different times to add diversity to the style and complexity. After pressing, the juice was highly clarified and then cool fermented – each parcel separately. A range of yeasts were used to add to the aromatics. The grapes were harvested in January of 2020 and bottled in May of 2021, certainly an extended period for this variety. The colour is a deep yellow. Aromas weave through dry herbs, nuts, stonefruit and more. This is a broader style than most. Nice flick of acidity on the palate and the wine does linger so a good food style.

Quilty & Gransden Chardonnay 2019
90 Points

This was my pick of the two whites from this new producer from Orange. The fruit was harvested early in the A.M. to ensure it was the coolest part of the day and then taken immediately to the winery for pressing and subsequent clarification. Fermentation took place at cool temperatures. There was a small portion of the juice set aside to ferment in contact with oak, to aid complexity. After fermentation, the wine spent six months on yeast lees, stirred every two weeks. This is done to provide a more creamy texture for the wine. After blending, clarification and stabilising, the wine was bottled. A yellow green, the aroma has notes of melon, nuts, spices, herbs and an orange rind character. This is a simple style, with good flavours. Chill and enjoy with seafood or chicken. Some decent length and balance here. Drink and enjoy now or over the next couple of years.

Quilty & Gransden Shiraz 2018
91 Points

For me, this and the Cabernet were the picks from the entire range. Grapes for this deeply flavoured Shiraz were harvested over five days before destemmed and then fermented at warmer temperatures, with twice daily maceration. The wine was then pressed off and spent six months in French oak, 15% new. Deep, dark red. Notes of mulberries and red fruits, tobacco leaf and a little chocolate. There is a cool flick of acidity on the palate, which is quite seamless and balanced. Good length here making this seriously good value.

Quilty & Gransden Merlot 2018
89 Points

The winemaking for this Merlot is identical to that used for the making of the Shiraz. The colour is a soft, dark red. There are charry aromas here, roast meat notes, campfire touches and red fruits, currants and raspberries. A relatively soft palate on this mid-length wine which then finishes with a little grip to round things off. This is a more earthy, firmer style of Merlot than some of the fruit-driven examples although preference does come down to the individual. This is decent value and an ideal barbecue wine.

Quilty & Gransden Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
91 Points

We’ve come to expect a degree of austerity, of reluctant exuberance and formal structure with Cabernet. This breaks the rules. It is delightfully fresh and vibrant. Okay, it may not cellar for twenty years and challenge the best from Margaret River and Coonawarra, but then you are not paying for that. Terrific value for a simple and pleasing wine. The fruit here was crushed with open rollers before inoculation soon after. Fermentation was at a temperature of between 24 and 28°C, with pump overs twice daily. Then pressing ‘onto’ oak (mainly French) for six months. This is red with a rim of red/brown. As noted, the wine has a delightful freshness. Notes of red apples, cherries, tobacco leaf and a hint of chocolate. Good length and nicely balanced. Again, very good value.