Ray Jordan
93 Points – Drink 2023 – 2033
This part of Coonawarra which roughly bisects the region results in fruit that ripens earlier than most parts. As a result, the wine is distinctly different with slightly lighter body and more of that cooler climate leafiness. This has a spicy white pepper character on the nose overlaying the cherry and red fruits of this variety. Silky smooth and refined palate with super fine chalky tannins and a subtle lick of oak in support.
Jeni Port
92 Points – Drink 2023 – 2031
The back beat is the thing here, that resounding beat of tannin that gives this wine drive. It keeps pulsing through what is clearly going to be a late bloomer. The modest 12.3% alcohol provides a clue as to the source of this wine’s delicacy and quiet impact at this stage.
To bring it out of its shell some air is needed and a very brisk swish and swirl. Red and blue fruits begin to emerge, Asian spice is coaxed, some florals, too. Warm toasty oak is giving a sign that it’s there. It is going to take some time to shine a light on this reluctant beauty.
Angus Hughson
91 Points – Drink 2021 – 2030
You don’t often say this about Coonawarra Shiraz but this wine is a real crowd pleaser with generous, open-knit fruits and it is already well and truly open for business. Deep ruby all the way to the rim, there is a wide array of powerful aromas on display – cranberry, red liquorice, black olive and white pepper to start with sweet cedary oak. It’s then round and rich in the mouth – ample fruit well supported by sinewy tannins that provide a supple backbone. It’s sweet compared to the more savoury angle of the Black Label Old Vines Shiraz.
Ken Gargett
94 Points – 2024 – 2032
Sue Hodder and her winemaking colleague, Sarah Pidgeon, have established themselves as the masters of their craft in Coonawarra. You won’t find a dud, or anything close, as if a wine is not up to scratch, they don’t release it. With viticulturalist Allen Jenkins, they have worked tirelessly in the vineyards and winery and the results have been obvious to anyone following these wines over time. They consider the vineyards on the terra rossa strip next to V&A Lane, a long, straight road surveyed in 1851 (the old district boundary between the historical electorates of Victoria and Albert – hence, the V&A) to be a bit special. Shiraz here is an early ripener (relatively speaking). The oak is seasoned French oak puncheons (95%) and hogsheads (5%) for 14 months. 50% whole bunches are incorporated in the ferment. Vibrant purple, the nose is more restrained than the Old Vines, more refined. There are notes of leather, cloves, warm earth, coffee grinds. There is power here, for sure, but it is more coiled and brooding, awaiting its time. The wine offers depth, good focus and nice length. It is of mid intensity and very fine tannins. This is more elegant than the Old Vines at this stage, more the school prefect in comparison to the Old Vines wild child. One final comment, if I may. I see the Wynn’s team have made a suggestion that it would work well with fried tofu. Hard to imagine a worse fate for this lovely wine.
