Last year, Ottelia celebrated 10 years of Riesling in Mount Gambier, on the Limestone Coast. Beyond the usual suspects among the classic Riesling regions, it is refreshing to see another producer – and GI – build a decade-long track record with a grape that I, admittedly, have always loved. There are some true gems in this vertical, with an overall impression of wines that clearly express the vintage variation in this small corner of the South Australian Victorian border, shaped by a strong Southern Ocean influence, while retaining a distinct mineral edge from its volcanic and ancient limestone soils.
2015 Ottelia Riesling
92pts | RRP: $25
A shimmering golden hue sets the scene for this 11-year-old Riesling. While one might expect pronounced tertiary development, the characteristic petrol note appears as little more than a gentle whiff. More striking are the aromas of apricot delight, orange conserve, mandarin peel, beeswax and acacia honey. Despite its aromatic richness and more than a decade of age, it retains plenty of lip-smacking acidity. The mid-palate is generous without being weighty, before finishing rather succinctly, leaving an impression of botrytis-led sweetness.
2016 Ottelia Riesling
91pts | RRP:
With its mesmerising golden hue, it comes as no surprise that the bouquet leans heavily towards notes of orange marmalade, preserved kumquat, marinated lemon, crystallised ginger and beeswax. Reminiscent of dry/trocken Auslese (a selected-harvest style often marked by some botrytis) the palate carries plenty of pillowy texture. A phenolic grip shapes the finish without challenging the wine’s overall aromatic intensity.
2017 Ottelia Riesling
97pts | RRP: ?
In this vintage, age feels like little more than a relative number. Beyond a faint golden tinge and a whisper of kerosene, the wine quickly reveals fresher notes of preserved kumquat, marinated lemon, olive brine, bitter orange and summer hay. Exceptionally delicate and fine-boned, it wears its years with grace, organically expressing the gentle passage of time while retaining a remarkable sense of freshness and youthful energy. Slightly spritzy on the palate, it remains vibrant and zesty. While the nose leans subtly towards development, the palate tells a different story altogether – one of vitality, tension and considerable life still ahead.
2018 Ottelia Riesling
94pts | RRP: $22
Light gold in colour. Opening notes of kerosene give way to acacia honey, beeswax, preserved orange and grilled lemon, layered with aromatic herbs. The palate strikes an impressive balance, with acidity that is slightly softer than in previous vintages yet still quite refreshing. While the nose leans more towards development, the flavours on the palate remain largely in their prime, with crunchy red apple lending an impression of youthfulness. A well-composed wine overall, showing well now and over the near future.
2019 Ottelia Riesling
95pts | RRP: $25
No kerosene on the nose, which is a good sign at six years of age. Aromas of beeswax, ripe quince, preserved kumquat, acacia honey and orange marmalade follow. The palate shows a gentle spritz, with a fine texture balanced by lively, tonic acidity and a saline sea-spray note that cuts through. This wine currently shows the highest residual sugar (6.7 g/l), with the acidity keeping it in check, resulting in a dry, clean and vivacious wine with good ageing potential.
2021 Ottelia Riesling
93pts | RRP: $28
A year marked by the cool influence of La Niña has resulted in a delicate, steely, mineral-driven wine with fine notes of quince, mandarin, fragrant blossoms, lemon verbena, lime, red apple and sea spray.
Svelte and lifted, yet tightly coiled and mineral on the mid-palate. It is packed with life and energy, leaving the palate salivating and the tongue gently tingling.
2022 Ottelia Riesling
93pts | RRP: $27
The influence of La Niña continues in this vintage, reflected in the reserved and graceful style of this Riesling. Aromas of sea spray, lime, lemon sorbet, Granny Smith apple, grapefruit, blossoms and mandarin peel lead the way. The palate shows a light aromatic texture and gentle phenolic grip, supported by invigorating acidity that effortlessly cleanses the palate, inviting the next sip. While it remains firmly youthful, crunchy and highly aromatic, it would benefit from a short time in bottle. Otherwise, it pairs beautifully with food, particularly Asian cuisine or dishes with more exotic spice elements.
2023 Ottelia Riesling
92pts | RRP: $25.99
La Niña had a partial impact here, with January recording above-average temperatures and February marked by damp, mild weather. The nose is driven by floral and aromatic notes of frangipani, blossom honey, musk, quince, mandarin and yuzu that leap from the glass. With residual sugar at 7.5 g/l, the acidity largely holds its place, resulting in an aftertaste that feels both grippy and surprisingly dry.
