It was the end of the 1920s when Francesco Calabria decided to leave his homeland in Southern Italy in search of a fortune and a better life down under. Calabria Wines was officially founded in 1945by Francesco and his wife Isabella, who, like many immigrants of the time, travelled alone to test the uncharted waters of Australia before reuniting with his family in their new adoptive country.

“2025 marks our 80th anniversary, which is a milestone we’re incredibly proud of,” says third-generation Andrew Calabria at the recent anniversary dinner held in the posh Melbourne suburb of Toorak.

Calabria was born in an era largely dominated by fortified wines, but Francesco, like many Italians living abroad, longed for the dry red wines that reminded him of his native region. Fortified wines did cross Calabria’s path on occasion, for example, during the 1980s recession, when a surplus of wine led Francesco’s son, Bill Calabria, to wash bottles for larger companies, including McWilliam’s, just to earn an income.

Life has a funny way of coming full circle: Calabria has owned McWilliam’s since 2021. Today, under the expert guidance of Chief Winemaker Emma Norbiato, they continue to produce great bargains from multiple regions. At the same time, they’ve cleverly taken the passionate Russell Cody, Scott and Mel McWilliam under their wings, driving a true fortified resurgence.

With roots spanning two countries, two wine cultures, and two very different histories, the Calabria brand shows no signs of slowing down anytime soon.

2024 McWilliam’s 660 Tumbarumba Chardonnay
94pts | $25

It opens with an interesting dichotomy of steeliness and generosity, offering notes of peaches and cream, nougat, grilled hazelnuts, vanillin, Meyer lemon, and summer hay. On the palate, it is equally textural and tactile, yet racy in its acidity, with a fine pull of tension and a strong mid-palate presence. The fruit carries effortlessly across the palate, delivering both weight and precision. With its length, and vibrancy at the core, it overdelivers for its price.

2024 Calabria Three Bridges Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir
89pts | $24.95

For a whole-bunch–fermented style, it is lifted and fragrant, delivering polished notes of cherries, raspberries, red currants, and strawberries. The whole-bunch character then reveals itself with a savoury nuance of bresaola. On the palate, it is fruit-forward, perhaps a touch too generous, with flavours of strawberries and cream, candied raspberries, and a hint of vanillin. The tannins are soft and polished, with ample fruit generosity and a gentle warmth on the finish. There’s an immediacy to this wine that makes it feel perfectly in its drinking window right now.

2024 McWilliam’s 660 Canberra Shiraz
92pts | $25

On the eye, it presents a brilliant purple hue, unfolding to a medley of lifted blue violets, polished mulberries, blueberries, açaí berries, and blood plums, with a sweet touch of red liquorice. On the palate, it confirms the sweetness of the fruit, balanced by tangy acidity and framed by slowly building, grainy tannins. There’s ample juiciness and fruit presence to keep it engaging, offering great drinkability now as well as enough structure and length to hold for a little longer. Once again, an excellent bargain for the money.

McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate Rare Topaque 20 years
92pts | $80

With an overall blend age spanning 11 to 35 years, and six generations of winemaking behind it, tell me again that fortified wines aren’t spectacular time machines, offering snapshots of several decades in a glass. Long live the Aussie Topaque. Medium mahogany in colour, it shows intense aromas of cardamom, walnut skin, crystallised ginger, date and fig paste, green olives, grilled Brazil nuts, and a touch of soy–fish sauce character. The palate is thick but never cloying, with a refreshing line of acidity that lifts the sweetness and keeps it lively. The spirit is so well integrated that it’s barely noticeable, aside from a subtle savoury edge. The only drawback is a touch of residual sugar dominance, slightly tempering the fruit and savoury length.

McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate Rare Tawny 20 years
95pts | $80

Mostly based on Touriga Nacional, with Shiraz and Grenache as the other key players, this is a terrific tawny that holds its own against many Portuguese counterparts. Thanks to Mr. Cody for driving a fortified resurgence down under. Medium mahogany in colour with a green tinge, it’s captivating on the eye. The nose is a fantastic mix of savoury, secondary, and tertiary aromas: olive brine, saline/sea spray character, orange skin, amaro herbs, cardamom, gentian, walnut skin, vanilla-infused butter, figs, prickly pears, preserved yuzu, and floral honey. On the palate, it is super fresh and vibrant, smooth and thirst-quenching, almost surreal for a fortified. Slight heat appears briefly at the back, where the spirit shows itself, but otherwise it is beautifully balanced, with the right mix of sweet and savoury elements. The finish is clean, leaving the palate ready for another delicious sip.

McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate Very Rare Tawny 30 years
96pts | $175

A blend of mainly Shiraz, Touriga Nacional, and Grenache, with an age range of 17 to 39 years, made only from the very best parcels and in limited quantities. Here we enter the rancio territory, which excites me greatly, and if you’re serious about Tawny, it should excite you too. Medium mahogany in colour with a slight green tinge, the nose reveals a well-integrated spirit alongside aromas of Medjool dates, leather, cocoa nibs, orange pudding, brewed black tea, preserved tangerines, grilled nuts, a savoury note of fish sauce, cinnamon stick, dried apricots, and cherry liqueur. On the palate, it is tangy and velvety, the luscious nature is effortlessly caressed by lively acidity, offering a lip-smacking citrus tang. It offers great energy and drinkability, with the spirit beautifully balanced throughout. An exceptional and thrilling Tawny.

McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate Rare Muscat 20 years
95pts | $80

Medium brown in colour, with a rich nose offering luxurious aromas of Christmas pudding, panettone, raisins, dried orange and figs, toasted Brazil nuts, ginger and vanilla, white chocolate, and a tangy note of brewed black tea. While it doesn’t shy away from its lusciousness, it displays an intriguing savoury edge, probably derived from the spirit. The palate is thick and delicious, almost as if you need a knife and fork to cut through the mid-palate. The finish is long and elegant, lifted by a refreshing citrus element. An enticing dessert in a glass, one I’d reach for on any special occasion.