Wine is in a constant state of change. This is especially true in a wine region like the Clare Valley with more than 150 years of winemaking already on the board. The groundwork for the next 150 years is already being laid in the planting of ‘alternative’ grape varieties, moves to organic certification, sustainable production, and changes in winemaking styles to reflect a younger and more adventurous consumer, as well as going head to head with the biggest question mark of all: dealing with a shifting
climate.

Fortunately, we don’t have to wait long to see and taste most of those changes. Many are already there, in the glass. The emergence of alternative varieties such as nero d’Avola, grüner veltliner, fiano, tempranillo, sangiovese, primitivo and a host of other grapes now going into the ground is undoubtedly one of the more exciting aspects of discovering the wines of the Clare Valley. They bring an added dimension to the great triumvirate of riesling, shiraz and cabernet sauvignon, which remain the foundation of everything that is Clare Valley wine.

The star of this year’s tasting was undoubtedly Riesling. Producers were blessed with a rare trio of outstanding vintages in 2021, 2022 and 2023. Principal Riesling subregions of Watervale and Polish Hill River delivered their usual highly individual takes on the grape, combining a mix of beauty and elegance (Watervale) and concentrated power (Polish Hill River) across what were three fabulous vintages.

Might one or all of those years live up to the fabled 2002 or 2017 Clare Riesling vintages? Time will tell, but the 2021, with a classic mix of lifted aromatics and lime essence, has that special X-factor quality to give it a shot. As for the 2024 vintage, the early bird wines now released show promise but generally not the same intensity. ‘The 2024 Riesling we brought in all came in at lower baumes than previous vintages [’22 and ’23] largely as we saw bright fruit and appealing natural acids’, says Carissa Major, general manager of Claymore Wines. ‘Let the vineyard tell you when to pick.’

Still, one of the biggest hurdles to climb for Clare Riesling makers is sweetness. ‘One of our challenges as a region is continuing to educate consumers around the misconception that rieslings are overly sweet,’ explains Jason Crane at Crabtree Wines. ‘Clare Valley Riesling, especially from Watervale and Polish Hill, is known for its balance and precision,’ he stresses.

Shiraz from Clare has traditionally been touted as full of flavour, character and strength. It is not shy.
What it can be and what some producers are exploring, is a Shiraz more medium bodied in flavours that can be described as ‘savoury’ or ‘elegant’, or ‘softer’ and ‘juicier.’ Many are now produced to be more approachable at a younger age. Then there’s the question of oak: less is often better, and the more aggressive qualities of American oak are gradually giving way to the finer influence of French. When it
comes to Shiraz, the ‘Focus is on delivering primary fruit character that shows its regionality,’ explains Nick Walker, of O’Leary Walker.

We note some producers choose ‘Syrah’ over Shiraz in order to presumably endow the wine with a more expressive, cooler climate attitude. Sometimes, that is borne out in the glass. The higher altitude ridges of the Valley, which can reach up to 465 metres above sea level, offer some distinctive styles.

Behind Shiraz in total tonnes crushed each vintage is Cabernet Sauvignon, which continues to be a major focus for Clare producers. However, climate change is signalling some minor adjustments. ‘Climate change has certainly influenced the way we approach our signature varieties,’ notes Kurt Larson, hospitality manager at Tim Adams and Mr Mick Wines. ‘Drier winters and warmer growing seasons have led to earlier ripening, impacting acidity and alcohol levels.’ He adds, ‘Whilst the traditional varieties still retain their regional footprint, we’ve had to adjust our vineyard practices, such as the timing of harvest.’

Maximising the grape’s naturally elegant expression while at the same time not losing structure or varietal flavour integrity (and avoiding looking like sweetfruited Shiraz) continues to be a goal for Clare winemakers.

Taylor’s shines the brightest and most ambitious light on the grape, producing a $1000-a-bottle aged release, The Legacy. New rising stars? Well, the jury is still out, but there is a range of definite contenders.
Grenache, which has previously been joined by Shiraz and Mataro/Mourvèdre in 170 The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus South Australia 2024 171 ‘Riesling, Shiraz and Cabernet are iconic’, says Jason Crane at Crabtree Wines, ‘and we have a loyal following for those varietals. However, experimenting with alternative varieties is where the real excitement lies in winemaking.’

In whites, Fiano is showing some fantastic qualities in the Valley. In reds, we are seeing some particularly attractive Nero d’Avola, tempranillo, and sangiovese. ‘These varieties are lighter in weight than our traditional reds and display bright, inviting primary fruit characteristics supported by structure of acid and/or natural grape tannin’, says Carissa Major at Claymore, about the company’s Sangiovese,
Tempranillo and Montepulciano. ‘They are also lifestyle friendly and really fit with a modern wine drinking culture where we see more people enjoying lighter, food friendly reds.’ ‘Essentially:, she adds, ‘they are fun and meant to be enjoyed in youth as bright, sparkly young things.’

Many of these newer varieties are late budding, late ripening, and well suited to the soils and Clare topography. They also hold their acidity in the heat and provide flexibility in winemaking. These qualities will undoubtedly become more of a focus in light of reduced rainfall, increasingly dry winter and spring conditions, and significantly earlier harvests predicted not just for the Clare Valley but for much of
Australia. Clare Valley winemakers seem more than ready for the challenges.