The unveiling of the Bastard Hill Vineyard, like all Giant Steps ventures, was nothing short of impressive—from the gradient of the slope to the branded gumboots and the invited guest list.
However, what was more profound and what I walked away with was the deep respect that Mel Chester and the entire team had for the people behind the ongoing life of the vineyard—the lineage of personalities who tended the hill and kept the myth alive, one backache at a time.
That visionary was Ray Guerin, who saw possibilities where others saw tripping hazards—the location was sunny Gladysdale, a block that sloped sharply down from the crest of a ridge, with a creek on either side and good elevation. It would be hard yakka but it would hopefully be worth it.
Ray’s legacy, taken up by Tom Newton and Steve Pannell over the years, would endure to one day produce quality dry table wines. However, as time ticked along, its full potential has not been realised, until now.
Mel Chester and Ashley Wood understand that with great sites comes wisdom and knowledge that only firsthand experience can bring, which Geurin brings as he is now back alongside the dedicated team at Giant Steps.
So, what can we expect from its first vintage, you ask? Well, you better believe it when I say the Bastard Hill is already producing BITCHIN wines!
The 2023 Single Vineyard wines are once again showing their distinct personalities, each year they get just that bit wiser and sure footed. As Steve Flamsteed said “the 2023 is perhaps the greatest chardonnay season yet to date” and upon tasting them I’m convinced.
The Giant Steps Single Vineyard line-up now has a brand new sibling and together it’s perhaps the most outstanding gene pool for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the country.
All hail, The King in the North has arrived.
2023 Tarraford Chardonnay
Majority P58 clone. White grapefruit, winter melon and lemongrass. Blue stone, chalk and raw pancake batter. Lemon aspen and lilly pilly fruit. The wine has a coolness, not just in its refreshing quality but in its textural feel. Like a coconut milk based iced tea. Long lines of natural and unforced acidity, with power but no trace of heft. Raw cashew on the finish.The wine is shaped like an acute triangle with its tapering acidity funnelled down the palate. In the glass on the day, this is the wine that was drinking at its best now with plenty of precision and detail. Tarraford has its dedicated fans and this is one of the best yet. Drink now or cellar for 5 years or so and serve with pan seaweed King George whiting fillets. 97 Points
2023 Sexton Chardonnay
The north facing Sexton vineyard planted in late 90’s is Giant Steps home base. In the planted 30Ha of chardonnay, Mel Chester has her pick of the patchwork vineyard pulling from Gingin, Mendoza and Bernard clones. Here we see about 50% Gingin. This wine has character. You cannot or will ever say it’s a wallflower. Driven by its intensity of orchard fruit, nectarine and white peach, backed by some of the spiciest back up singers. Turmeric, curry leaf, dandelion and cumin. It’s muscular, powerful and yet graceful, like the stride of an outside centre in rugby, Mark Ella, perhaps. A hint of churned butter and glace pineapple on the finish. Acidity hums along nicely. There is something for everyone’s palate here and this vintage is singing in perfect harmony. Drink now and will cellar well upwards of 8 years. This would be a belter served with homemade cornbread and fried chicken. 98 Points
2023 Applejack Chardonnay
The Applejack vineyard is 1.8ha of Chardonnay, a blend of southern and northern slopes within its east facing site. No battonage and no malolactic fermentation. This vintage is highly aromatic in florals of billy buttons, sunflower and bee pollen. A touch of dandelion, peach stone and mandarin oil. Acidity reaches the zenith whilst the back palate offers shortbread, marzipan and hazelnut paste. I adore the originality of this wine, its showing off its more elevated site whilst an intriguing aromatic profile shines through. Drink now or will cellar well for 5 years. A wine that could handle a rich carbonara or cheesy cauliflower bake. 96 Points
2023 Bastard Hill Chardonnay
From 1987 planted vines pulled from the steep slope at 380 metres above sea level. Soils are a deep red clay loam and this vintage had very small bunches. Poised, is the first word that comes to mind. Lemongrass, aloe and lemon pith. Shale, steel wool and driftwood. A squirt of finger lime amongst a bed of succulent plants. Grated ginger, arrowroot and nutmeg. A tightwire of acidity, the electricity flickers through each sip. There is a subtle note of oyster mushroom and potters clay. If this is the base level vintage of this wine we will ever see, then I am absolutely ok with the bottom of the pack. It’s beyond remarkable that this is the first bottling from Giant Steps of this wine, what more can they do?! Get in whilst you can as only four puncheons were made. This is the beginning of something truly special. Drink now and will cellar well for up to 8 years. Serve with homemade puff pastry cheese parcels, a bastard to make, but hey, the reward is worth it. 97 Points
2023 Bastard Hill Pinot Noir
Sourced from Block 2 a mix of MV6 and D5V12 clone. Rosebud, tea leaf, violet and lavender spray. Blueberries, blood plums and bilberries. The palate is almost slippery in the mouthfeel with blue fruits showing a rounded finish. There are river stones, white pepper and cassia bark. A Campari-like bitters on the finish. Acidity is bright and tannins dusty and fine. This is an exciting first vintage of this wine and it’s clear this will add further dimensions to the single vineyard offering from Giant Steps. Drink now and will cellar for another 3-4 years. Serve with pork terrine. 95 Points
2023 Primavera Pinot Noir
Primavera is often late to ripen, and so has been closely and painstakingly monitored by Lou Primavera since 2000. His understanding of the red basalt soils and site is then further heightened by the winemaking team who know how to draw out its nuances. What is, for me, the creative child of the line up. I adore the red fruit core of raspberry, pomegranate and rhubarb. Which then lends way to harissa, oolong tea and carob notes. Cumin, cassia and dried porcini mushroom on the finish. There are stringy bark tannins and crackle to the acidity. A sweet cherry tomato mid palate, that makes for moreish drinking. It’s a refined wine that makes for heavenly drinking, even for heathens like me. Drink now and will cellar well for 6 years. A lovely pairing for tomato and pancetta risotto. 97 points
2023 Applejack Pinot Noir
The final blend of this wine is around 40% whole bunch fermented from the grey clay soils containing Able, MV6, Pommard, 114 and 115 clones. Red toffee apple, hibiscus, and freshly smeared lipstick. Rosella, beetroot and cassis. Exotically spiced, savoury and earthy. The mid palate has a clarity of Bing cherry that’s astonishing. Followed by prune plums, Quong dong and finishing with amplified acidity. There is an umami note, almost like a delicious msg sprinkle. Some decently weighted tannins keep the palate flavours echoing long into the next sip, its sturdy in its structure ensuring this wine will outlive almost any Aussie pinot noir. It’s bullet proof and worth every cent and more. Drink now or will cellar for 10 years. A wonderful wine to have with sirloin, truffle crisps or drinking alone. 98 Points
2023 Sexton Pinot Noir
The final blend of this wine is around 21% whole bunch fermented. A quiet wine in the glass that needs a bit of time before it reveals itself, be patient as this wine unfurls and gains momentum. It is deeply pigmented in garnet hues and shows black raspberries, cherries and rose petals. Woodsy herbs like rosemary stem, thyme, clove and sesame. Front to middle palate tannins are grainy and astute. There are granite-like immoveable foundations to this wine that will allow it to live a long time. So too is there significant turbidity and viscosity to this wine. Drink now or cellar for 8 years. A perfect wine for blackened skinned cod. 96 Points
2023 Nocton Coal River Valley Pinot Noir
From a dry vintage with plenty of sunlight on this eastern facing slope. Black cherry, bramble and boysenberry. Wood Ear mushroom, hawthorn and thistle. Pomegranate molasses and olive skin. Prune plums and black fig. Grainy tannins and crunchy acidity, there is good mid palate weight and plenty of length. A hint of black pepper spice with star anise and allspice. Drink now and will cellar 5 years on. A wonderful wine for blueberry cheesecake or a crumbly cheddar and quince paste. 95 Points
