As luck would have it, the 2022 growing season resulted in delightful quality but like a kick to the guts it was a low yielding vintage. The 2022 Single Vineyard release is still one of the most anticipated reveals of the year and in true Giant Steps style walks the line with swagger and palpable energy. Mel Chester hits it out of the park.
2022 Sexton Chardonnay
Directly fed to the barrel by gravity and fermented on gross lees in 500L French oak puncheons. 10 months maturation in 20% new french oak and 80% in older oak. Located on the north slopes of the Warramate Ranges. For a lot of Chardonnay drinkers this is the gateway drug to all Giant Steps wines. The Sexton has a reputation, one of high toned citrus and a basket of perfectly ripe nectarines, white peaches and yellow plum. It’s completely alluring with ground ginger, nutmeg and baked Madeleine biscuits. It slinks like a leopard across your palate and then springs with the force of driving acidity. A fine thread of grippy tannins and a bouncy weight which has you reaching back for the glass. This personifies the whole Giants Steps range of perfectly ripe fruit, texture and a fine balance of line. Drinking beautifully and will cellar up to 7 years. Drink with Carbonara, however you make it, cream or no cream. This will be a perfect partnership. 97 Points
2022 Applejack Chardonnay
Directly fed to the barrel by gravity and fermented on gross lees in 500L French oak puncheons. 10 months maturation in 15% new french oak and 85% in older oak. Scented white lilies, geranium and apple blossom. Lemon skin, white nectarine and custard apple. A flicker of flint, blue stone and grated ginger. Hemp seed, cashew and oyster mushroom. This is all about the powerful fruit weight supported by generous oak and a tightly compacted flavour palate. There is a lot of Chardonnay for your money here. Acidity is elevated and you can almost feel the fracture of crushed shale and basalt. This is a very impressive Applejack vintage and I’m enamoured. Drink now and put some aside to drink over the next 8-10 years. Drink with Mudcrab linguine. 98 Points
2022 Tarraford Vineyard Chardonnay
A protected site in the Yarra Valley, the Tarraford Vineyard is made up of grey loam on cool slopes. Directly fed to the barrel by gravity and fermented on gross lees in 500l French oak puncheons. 20% goes through malolactic and matured for 10 months in new 20% and old 80% older oak. Tarraford always has plenty of intrigue and a wine that rewards when you pay attention to the details. Chalkboard dust, grapefruit pith, raw pinenut and chrysanthemum. Unbaked pastry dough, a water wash of fresh acidity and fine tuned lees work that adds an almond milk creaminess. It’s energetic and shapely and drinking like a dream but will cellar for 10 years plus. Drink with a potato and rosemary pizza. 97 points
2022 Primavera Vineyard Pinot Noir
All separate parcels were fermented in French oak of which 20% was new for a total of 10 months in barriques and demi john. Primavera Vineyard is located in Woori Yallock and farmed by the Primvera family with a solid standing relationship with Giant Steps. Primavera is always a treat for the nose with wild rose, peony and dried cranberry wafting from the glass. In this vintage it’s freshly picked petals and an elegance of fragrance, like a dab of sweetly scented oil on the nape of a neck. Seductive in both scent and form it’s a silky little number that glides across your palate with ease. Bright acidity carries the terra cotta, pine mushroom and red pepper spice. This is a perfect poised wine that sits in the Single Vineyards portfolio like the angel perched on the Christmas tree. Drink now and will cellar nicely 5-8 years. Pair with pork belly and earthy root vegetables. 96 Points
2022 Applejack Pinot Noir
A careful selection of clones fermented as whole bunches and others destemmed whole berries resulting in around 20% whole bunch total. Matured in 20% new French oak and 80% older barriques. The Applejack is once again assertive in its slew of blackcurrant, juniper and Nyon olive. Dried black cherries, inky plums and layers of herbs and spice. Bayleaf, lingonberries, licorice and allspice. Wood Ear mushroom, black truffle and coffee pods. The palate is a crunch of blood plums and beetroot juice with finely meshed tannins and finishing with turned potting soil. This is a roller coaster of wildly exotic fruits, spice and undergrowth. Flavours continue to echo long after the glass is laid down. A wine of exultation and total confidence. Will cellar up to 8 years and pair beautifully with venison. An absolute baller of a wine. 98 Points
2022 Sexton Vineyard Pinot Noir
100% destemmed and chilled prior to soaking, all parcels were fermented in 25% new French oak and 75% older oak for 10 months in barriques. Blood plums, mulberry and hulled black cherries. Rye bread, pumpernickel and cassia bark. There is stuffing behind the cuddly and pump black fruit with fine tannins and plenty of mouth succulent acidity. The 2022 Sexton is ample in mouthfeel and delivers a juicy, pulpy Pinot Noir of charm. Drink with Chicken Mole, rice and black beans. Drinking very well now and will cellar for 3 years. 95 Points
