If you can pardon the pun, variety is the spice of life, and the Limestone Coast wine region is brimming with it. From top-tier examples of the classics such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, and Chardonnay to the newcomer alternatives such as Malvasia, Istriana, Barbera, Lagrein, and Grüner Veltliner, you can pretty much get it all.This is thanks, in part, to the huge diversity of soils and climates throughout the region.
Sprawling from the southern tip of South Australia to the Victorian border, it features maritime climates closer to the Southern Ocean, as well as continental climates further inland; with a broad-reaching substratum of ancient limestone contributing to quality. However, praise must also be bestowed upon those brave enough to mix things up and explore varieties outside of the safe international mainstays. Diversification is necessary of course, but it’s one thing to talk about it, and another to do it. The vignerons of Limestone Coast have chosen the latter, and it’s working.
It’s fair to say that, in comparison to the more famous Australian regions, the majority of wine drinkers don’t know a great deal about the wider Limestone Coast region, but more so of its six subregions. The Limestone Coast encompasses Coonawarra, Wrattonbully, Padthaway, Mount Benson, Mount Gambier, and Robe – each with its individual appeal.
Coonawarra is by far the most known and revered, of course, with its terra rossa soils having yielded world-class Cabernet Sauvignon wines to much acclaim over decades. In fact, such classic grape varieties have seen much success across the wider Limestone Coast region, but it’s the rise of alternative varieties that has injected a sense of youth and adventure today.
Over the course of this tasting, not only did the quality of the wines impress, but the styles did too. Rarely did a wine feel too safe or ‘conventional’ in its aesthetic. Sitting squarely at the fore of the alternative varieties movement, Wangolina impressed with wines such as Malvasia Istriana, Fiano, and Carménère, to name a few, with the threads being vibrancy, layeredness and balance. In a more classic tone, Morambro rated well for their varietal wines such Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Chardonnay, with the threads being elegance and detail.
Reschke consistently showed great value for money for their wines made from classic varieties, often with
a sub $30 price point. And when it came to classic whites overall, the Sauvignon Blanc wines performed well for their overarching freshness, line and energy without ever descending to ponderous fruit or overt pyrazines.
The Limestone Coast region is in good stead for the future, given it can cater wonderfully to classic varieties as well as interesting alternatives across a range of climates and varied geographical landscapes. What’s more, this diversity opens up their options for adapting to the inevitable changes global warming will bring. Perhaps the most exciting part, however, is that with such variety on offer, it seems there’s a spice to please everyone.
Mention of the Riverland wine region mostly conjures thoughts of mass-produced, irrigated, simple and fruity wines at the less romantic end of the Australian wine spectrum. And while these thoughts are justified and true, there’s also a subset of newer school producers exploring varieties away from the classic Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, and Chardonnay. Despite only five wines being reviewed from
the region, grape varieties such as Zibibbo and Grenache Blanc featured, and to some success. While the Riverland won’t be changing its stripes anytime soon, there’s a dash of colour in the mix that’s worth keeping an eye on.
