Indigenous grape varieties – those multi-syllable ones that often trip the tongue and hail from ancient varieties off ancient lands – are slowly infiltrating Australian drinking habits. And that’s a good thing.In a wine world increasingly dominated by classic French varieties, the rise and rise of wines that don’t speak French but rather speak of their own people, land and culture is a breath of fresh air.
They not only preserve important regional and national traditions, they broaden minds, introducing different scents and flavours and the kind of descriptors that have you wondering just what part of the planet you have landed on. They can excite and often give rise to questions like, “Where has this wine been all my life?” Above all, they are totally individual.
At Alpha Estate located high in the mountains of northwestern Greece inside the PGI Florina region, indigenous grape varieties make sense in a modern wine world. The company and its local PDO Amyndeon region are gaining a fast growing reputation for the quality of their wines.
“For decades, international markets viewed Greek wine through a narrow, rustic lens, often associated with heavily oxidised whites or rustic, overly extracted reds,” notes Alpha Estate’s Export Manager, Konstantinos Makantasis when asked for his thoughts via email “The turning point has been the combination of state-of-the-art oenology with native grape heritage, allowing ancient varieties to express their truest, cleanest and most elegant selves.”
How ancient is winemaking in Greece? Very! It dates back more than 3000 years with archaeological evidence from the 13th Century BCE. Ancient Thracians crushed grapes in stone presses and fermented in clay amphorae, and the Amyndeon region is named after King Amyndas, the three times grandfather of Alexander the Great.
At Alpha Estate, ancient varieties principally centre around Malagouzia, an aromatic white grape saved from extinction in the 1970s, and Xinomavro, a red grape often talked about in the same breath as Nebbiolo and regarded as the noblest of indigenous red grapes of Northern Greece. They grow on the high-altitude PDO Amyndeon (ΠΟΠ Αμύνταιο) plateau framed by three massive surrounding mountain ranges on sandy, clay over rich limestone soils left behind by ancient lakes. The ongoing role of two modern lakes situated nearby – Lake Vegoritida and Lake Petres – is important. Makantasis argues that these water bodies act as giant thermal regulators, absorbing heat during the day and delivering cool breezes at night. This buffering effect evens out extreme temperature spikes, prevents frost damage and creates a unique microclimate that allows complex aromatic compounds to develop in varieties like Xinomavro and Malagouzia.
The sandy soils also ensure that phylloxera is kept at bay leaving Alpha Estate to farm rare, ungrafted, pre-phylloxera old vines with deep, deep roots that reach down and extract what the Alpha winemaking team see as a “distinct mineral purity and structural elegance.”
And the team – co-founders, viticulturist Makis Mavridis and chemist-oenologist, Angelos Iatridis, who established Alpha Estate in 1997 – fully embrace modern winemaking techniques. Indeed, they see it as crucial to the international interest and success of their wines, which include standalone Greek grapes and wines comprising blends of Greek and French varieties.
“The global and Australian surge of interest in Greek wines is a combination of precise contemporary technique and modern winemaking meeting extraordinary, distinct terroir,” says Makantasis. Modern techniques, he argues, act as a lens not a mask.
Malagouzia – “mah-lah-GOO-zee-ah” – is a bit of a mouthful both in name and in flavour. It’s a generous, warm flavoured white wine, high in aromatics that are said to range anything from basil, lime and orange through to exotic fruits and rose petals. The Alpha Estate Malagouzia Single Vineyard “Turtles” 2025 (PGI Florina) brings distinctive stone fruits and floral notes to the glass. The high-altitude vineyard site, up to 710m high allows grapes to ripen slowly while retaining high natural acidity. With its cold, snowy winters and warm, dry summers the PDO Amyndeon (ΠΟΠ Αμύνταιο) is one of the coldest viticultural zones in all of Greece.
Xinomavro – “ksee-noh-mah-vroh” – is a celebrated high quality variety as well as being the most dominant Northern Greek planted red grape, and its name when translated into English – “sour-black” – tells you a lot about its personality. Blessed with high acidity, Xinomavro wines can go on to age beautifully. The grape is also a natural when made into rosé. Amyndeon is in fact the only Greek PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) that permits the production of Xinomavro Rosé. The Alpha Estate Rosé Single Vineyard “Hedgehog” 2024 (PDO Amyndeon) (see tasting notes) sports lifted aromatics and delivers the right mix of fruit characters and savoury influences. The Alpha Estate Xinomavro Single Vineyard “Hedgehog” 2023 (PDO Amyndeon) (see tasting notes) is a beaut and will certainly live up to the promise of extended ageing potential.
PDO Amyndeon (ΠΟΠ Αμύνταιο) is part of the wider regional zone of PGI Florina (ΠΓΕ Φλώρινα). It offers, says Makantasis, a “dramatic departure” from the classic Mediterranean sunshine-and-sea model so often associated with Greek wines by the world’s wine drinkers. “Instead of sun-baked, island or coastal vineyards,” he says, “this northwestern corner offers a dramatic, high-altitude continental ecosystem that feels closer to Central Europe than southern Greece.”
PGI Florina (ΠΓΕ Φλώρινα) also allows producers the creative freedom to blend indigenous grapes with international varieties. Alpha Estate believes Syrah is a perfect partner with Xinomavro. It’s hard not to disagree with Syrah filling out the middle palate with a ripe, dark fruited presence in the Alpha Estate Axia Syrah – Xinomavro 2023 (PGI Florina) (see tasting notes). The two grapes join in partnership with Merlot for the Alpha Estate S.M.X. 2020 (PGI Florina), a wine that reveals the cooler climate beauty of the region producing a super elegant wine.
The Syrah grape from this region enjoyed international recognition last year when the Alpha Estate Syrah Single Vineyard “Turtles” 2022 took out the coveted title of Shiraz of the Year at the 2025 USA Wine Ratings International wine competition, followed by this year’s same distinction second year in a row.
A range of Alpha Estate wines – Ecosystem – that we have yet to see in Australia also embraces the noble white variety, Assyrtiko. The grape is more usually associated with the Greek islands but is also grown in Amyndeon. It offers intense, zesty fresh citrus flavours with a strong mineral, flintiness and is blessed in high acidity. Australians are now seeing locally-grown Assyrtiko and are quite familiar with the grape, which has undoubtedly helped to make Assyrtiko the most featured Greek wine on Australian wine lists.
The challenging nature of the Alpha Estate high-plateau terroir makes smart water management essential. The Ecosystem range of wines highlights the company’s work in the careful management of water. The vineyards are home to porous, sandy loam soils with rapid natural drainage, so managing water to prevent vine stress is essential. The Ecosystem management includes sub-surface drop irrigation straight to the root zone and soil moisture tracking. Other wines in the Ecosystem range include an old vine single block Xinomavro and single block Malagouzia. Here’s hoping we also get to see these wines in the near future.
Indigenous grape varieties like Malagouzia, Assyrtiko and Xinomavro are far from mere vinous curiosities. Makantasis sees them as serious “contenders” with the ability to become true international, top-selling stars. This is already happening. They also have the potential to weather climate change better than many other varieties with a deep-root connection to place over generations that some introduced grape varieties just can’t manage.
“There are strong structural indicators that PDO Amyndeon (ΠΟΠ Αμύνταιο) and PGI Florina (ΠΓΕ Φλώρινα) are exceptionally well-position to navigate the pressures of a warming climate compared to many traditional, lower-altitude European wine regions,” he argues.
“While historic wine landscapes across Europe grapple with extreme heat spikes, over-ripening, and the rapid loss of acidity, this northwestern zone benefits from natural geographic buffers.”
The scene is set for more and more of us to become acquainted with the irrepressible beauty and individuality of indigenous grape varieties.
Get your tastebuds ready.
Alpha Estate Malagouzia Single Vineyard “Turtles” 2025 (PGI Florina)
Grape: Malagouzia “mah-lah-GOO-zee-ah”
Characters: high quality, full bodied, aromatic grape almost lost to time and “rediscovered” in the 1980s.
Where: Turtles vineyard, Amyndeon plateau (ancient nesting area for local turtle species).
Geographical Indication: Florina (ΠΓΕ Φλώρινα)
Vineyard: 620-710m high vineyard on sandy clay soil over limestone.
Winemaking: De-stemmed, lightly crushed, skin contact, fermentation in stainless steel, two months maturation with regular stirring.
ABV% 13.5%
Closure: Diam
Feels and smells like a walk through a field of wild flowers with its lifted scent of honeysuckle, grassy florals and sunny white florals with splashes of lemon citrus, white peach and pear. Doesn’t skip a beat as those aromatics go on to play a fundamental role on the palate. Plenty of charm on show with a warm, lees-defined creaminess and light almond savouriness. Concentration and flavour – so together so early in its life – exhibiting ripe peach, citrus, Nashi pear, spices and white jasmine florals. Fleshy in texture with a gentle phenolic edge and the kind of bright acidity that should bring some medium term ageing potential. Finishes on a lasting savoury almond note.
94pts
Bottle Price: $31
Drink: 2026-2032
Alpha Estate Rosé Single Vineyard “Hedgehog” 2024
Grape: Xinomavro “ksee-noh-mah-vroh”
Characters: Xinomavro means “acid black” referencing the grape’s high acidity, top quality, widely planted, red fruits, potential for ageing, enjoys a single starring role but is also a good blending partner.
Where: Hedgehog Vineyard, Amyndeon (ΠΟΠ Αμύνταιο) plateau (ancient nesting area for local hedgehog species).
Geographical Indication: Florina (ΠΓΕ Φλώρινα)
Vineyard: 620-710m high vineyard, sandy clay soil over limestone.
Winemaking: De-stemmed, lightly crushed, two hours cold soak, fermentation in stainless steel, three months maturation with regular stirring.
ABV% 13.5.%
Closure: Diam
Offers a beautiful eye full of pale salmon hues with a bright copper infusion married to aromas of rosehip, hibiscus, wild strawberry, cherry and spice with hints of white pepper. Produced by the saignée method – where a portion of pink juice is removed from a tank of crushed grapes during early maceration – this young rosé delivers the right mix of fruit character and savoury influence. Sits in the potpourri, floral, cherry and red fruited, peppery spice spectrum with mealy notes layered in between dusty earthy tannins. A textural, dry style edged in orange rind. Reflects its higher, cooler home with a distinctly firm underlying acidity which immediately suggests longevity. Makes a perfect match with wild game or rosemary and thyme roast chicken.
93pts
Bottle Price: $45
Drink: 2026-2030
Alpha Estate Xinomavro Single Vineyard “Hedgehog” 2023
Grape: Xinomavro (“Ksee-noh-mah-vroh”)
Characters: Xinomavro means “acid black” referencing the grape’s high acidity, top quality, widely planted, red fruits, potential for ageing, enjoys a single starring role but is also a good blending partner.
Where: Hedgehog Vineyard, Amyndeon (ΠΟΠ Αμύνταιο) plateau (ancient nesting area for local hedgehog species).
Geographical Indication: PDO Amyndeon (ΠΟΠ Αμύνταιο)
Vineyard: 620-710m high vineyard, sandy clay soil over limestone.
Winemaking: De-stemmed, lightly crushed, cold soak, fermentation, 12 months maturation in Allier French oak, 12 months in bottle before release.
ABV%. 14.1%
Closure: Diam
Runs with the energy, vibrancy and wild, herbal edginess long associated with the grape. With its strong varietal statement, you can see why “Xin” is one of the most widely planted varieties in Greece. Deep cherry hues. Immediately pulls you in with its lifted dark rose petals, pressed flowers and cherry-bright and plum fruits, autumnal leaves, bracken, fennel seeds and anise spice. My tasting notes could be for nebbiolo, such is the similarity in aroma and flavour. Indeed, it has been posited that “xin” is related to nebbiolo – and even pinot noir – but neither is supported by DNA. Delivers an equally impactful palate: commanding and concentrated and yet so floral and elegant. You could easily get lost in this wine with its layers upon layers. Those alluring dark rose florals shine enhancing cherry and red berried fruits folded into a savoury, green leafy earthiness fuelled by wild herbs, fennel seed and a black peppery spiciness. Striking, cherry pip dry tannins roam wide and deep carrying those flavours long and true.
94pts
Bottle Price: $43
Drink: 2026-2040
Alpha Estate Axia Syrah Xinomavro 2023
Grapes: 50% Xinomavro (“Ksee-noh-mah-vroh”) & 50% Syrah (aka Shiraz)
Characters: Xinomavro means “black acid” referencing the grape’s high acidity, top quality, widely planted, red fruits. Syrah contributes weight with a richness of black fruited flavour and spices.
Where: Petres (“Stones”) and “Dromos” (“Road”) Vineyards, Amyndeon (ΠΟΠ Αμύνταιο) plateau.
Geographical Indication: PGI Florina (ΠΓΕ Φλώρινα)
Vineyard: 620-710m high vineyard, sandy clay soil over limestone.
Winemaking: De-stemmed, lightly crushed, cold soak, fermentation, 12 months maturation in Allier French oak, 12 months in bottle before release.
ABV% 14.5%
Closure: Diam
The Greek word “axia” translates to “worth” or “merit” in English. When applied to wine, it means something worthy or deserving of merit. It’s a fair call on this lovely blend of Greek and French grape varieties. When combined, they have more value and bring a sense of complexity which is greater than the sum of its parts. Deep crimson-red hues. Could this be the Greek version of Aussie shiraz-cabernet? Has that full on friendly charm with “xin” providing the florals, tannin structure and fresh acidity, and syrah filling out the middle palate with its ripe, dark fruited presence. Aromas of ripe red berry fruits, cassis and dried plum and leaves with briar and earth, juniper and woodsy oak spice. There’s a generosity of flavour, quite plush with hints of a smoked meaty savouriness resting on a bed of fine, firm tannins. This is an exciting blend worthy of being taken notice of in Australia. It works both sides of the wine matching road – as a solo entity or with food. Sommeliers take note!!!
96pts
Bottle Price: $32
Drink: 2026-2040
Alpha Estate S.M.X 2020
Grapes: 60% Syrah (aka Shiraz), 20% Merlot, 20% Xinomavro (“Ksee-noh-mah-vroh”),
Characters: Syrah contributes weight with a richness of black fruited flavour and spices. Merlot brings sweet, fresh plummy fruits and fleshy texture. Xinomavro means “black acid” referencing the grape’s high acidity, top quality, widely planted, red fruits.
Where: Alpheta vineyard, Amyndeon (ΠΟΠ Αμύνταιο) plateau
Geographical Indication: PGI Florina (ΠΓΕ Φλώρινα)
Vineyard: 620-710m high vineyard, sandy clay soil over limestone.
Winemaking: De-stemmed, lightly crushed, cold soak, fermentation, 18 months in new Allier, Bertrange & Jupille oak, 12 months in bottle before release. No filtration.
ABV% 14.5%
Closure: Diam
Über elegant and refined. Combines the best of three very individual grape varieties, and while it feels structured and oh so serious, there is this gentle thread of arresting florals and spice that brings a smile – this is surprisingly and immediately engaging! Six years in bottle seems just the right time to fully explore all it has to offer with its seamless integration of fruit-oak-tannin. Deep, impenetrable, crimson-red hues. Leads with ripe dark berries, plum and blueberry intertwined in violet florals, anise, sage and rosemary. Combines a richness of ripe fruits and dark cocoa with arresting, almost gin-like botanicals, earth, violet and woodsy spice. The longer it remains open, the more is revealed, so a decant or a few swishes of air once opened is advised. The role of mineral-laced tannins contributes to that general sense of elegance, so fine and capturing the almost understated nature of this wine. With balance and a building earthy savoury complexity, this is a keeper.
95pts
Bottle Price: $64
Drink: 2026-2042
Alpha Estate Ecosystem Malagouzia Single Block “La Tipes” 2025
Grape: Malagouzia “mah-lah-GOO-zee=ah”
Characters: high quality, full-bodied, aromatic grape almost lost to time and “rediscovered” in the 1980s.
Where: Amyndeon (ΠΟΠ Αμύνταιο) viticultural zone
Geographical Indication: Florina (ΠΓΕ Φλώρινα)
Vineyard: Single Block “Latipes,” 645m high with south exposure, Amyndeon (ΠΟΠ Αμύνταιο) plateau. Planted 2007.
Winemaking: De-stemmed, skin contact, wild yeast fermentation in French Nevers oak and Greek Robolo oak tun (vat) with regular fine lees stirring for 9mths.
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Diam
Mountain fresh and lively, bringing forward some of the most arresting aromatics you will see this side of grapes like gewürztraminer. Honeysuckle, citrus blossom, rose water, bergamot, passionfruit pulp, lime cordial and white peach scents are full on and rise from the glass. Captures ripeness of fruit without losing freshness, bringing spicy citrus and ginger biscuit notes to work on a palate textural and fleshy. The role of the two oaks – French and Greek – contributes an almost Turkish delight sweet note. This is a fascinating grape variety and wine that doesn’t fall into easily into any one style category, and that’s a very good thing. Totally individual and you have to love it and its ability to meld so well with so many food options – all Greek, naturally.
93pts
Bottle Price: $
Drink: 2026-2032
Alpha Estate Ecosystem Xinomavro Vielles Vignes Single Block “Barba Yannis” 2022
Grape: Xinomavro, “ksee-noh-mah-vroh”
Characters: Xinomavro means “acid black,” referencing the grape’s high acidity. The grape is top quality and widely planted, with red fruits and has strong potential for ageing. Enjoys a single, starring role but is also a good blending partner.
Where: Amyndeon (ΠΟΠ Αμύνταιο) plateau.
Geographical Indication: Florina (ΠΓΕ Φλώρινα)
Vineyard: Single Block “Barba Yannis,” 647m high with north-west exposure, facing Mount Voras. Planted 1919.
Winemaking: De-stemmed, skin contact, wild yeast fermentation, 24mths in new Allier French oak, 12mths in bottle before release. No filtration.
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Diam
A unique and beautiful expression of a grape variety and place that will be an entirely new experience for many Australians. Dark red-crimson hues. Aromas of black cherries, spice-dusted dark berries, ripe plums, red liquorice, wild herbs and hints of smoked charcuterie. Old vines contribute a deep, concentrated flavour while a freshness of acidity and long, ripe tannins brightens the palate. As a four-year-old, it remains youthful, building in black fruited flavour, herbs, woodsy spice and an enduring earthy, lightly savoury personality. Nothing is out of step, all constituents bring a harmony to the glass. A grape worth getting to know a lot more about.
96pts
Bottle Price: $
Drink: 2026-2042
Alpha Estate Ecosystem Assyrtiko Single Block “Aghia Kiriaki” 2024
Grape: Assyrtiko “ah-SEER-tee-ko”
Characters: Native to Santorini. Noted for its acidity, – which sees it increasingly being planted in warm areas – texture and minerality with fruits showing a range of flavours from citrus to tropical to saline, flint.
Where: Amyndeon (ΠΟΠ Αμύνταιο) plateau
Geographical Indication: Florina (ΠΓΕ Φλώρινα)
Vineyard: Single Block “Aghia Kiriaki,” 535m high with north-west exposure, facing Mount Voras. Planted 2006.
Winemaking: Skin contact for 6hrs, wild yeast fermentation in stainless steel tanks, maintenance of wine “sur lie” for 8mths with regular stirring.
ABV: 13%
Closure: Diam
Has an air of instant complexity about it with its creamy, lees-derived aromas and deep-seated citrus, almond and honeysuckle notes. That creaminess continues on the palate together with an inviting textural warmth and lively spiciness working side by side with citrus, white peach, melon almond meal and a taut, mineral brightness. This is a grape and a wine easy to love and get to know. It combines an impressive drive thanks to naturally high acidity that transforms into a strong acid pulse bringing life and energy to this layered and well composed, mineral-edged white wine. In perfect balance for immediate drinking, but holds the promise of more to share with time in bottle.
96pts
Bottle Price:
Drink: 2026-2034
