Sisu Wines Olivia Sattler

Sisu: Planting Grit and Grapes in the Coal River Valley

Jake Sheedy earned his stripes working alongside Peter Logan at Logan Wines in Mudgee. When COVID reshaped the world, it closed some doors—but opened others. Restless and driven, Jake saw an opportunity for something new, spurred on by his Sydney-based business partner.

One such opportunity lay in the cool reaches of Tasmania’s Coal River Valley. With his Irish wife Mary by his side, Jake ventured south in search of a fresh start. The region’s reputation for exceptional fruit spoke for itself, and when Valley View—a sheep-grazing homestead—came up for sale, Jake stood at the top of the hill and made the call: “Mate, it’s perfect.”

That was in 2019. By 2021, four hectares of vines had been planted and life for the young vigneron had changed dramatically. 

The story unfolded like the pages of a well-thumbed book. The ground was broken. Rocks—many, many rocks—were dug out. Sheep escaped, spring lambs were born, 1300 trees were planted and yes the damn machinery failed time and time again. Challenges came thick and fast, but each was met with grit and gumption.

Much has changed since that pivotal phone call. Jake and Mary welcomed their beautiful daughter Lillian, adjusted to the isolation of Tasmania’s frigid climate, and completed the mammoth winery build in March 2025. The first fruit, from the 2024 vintage, was bottled —an immense milestone.

Located in the Upper Coal River on Colebrook Road in Campania, SISU is nothing if not ambitious. Since 2021, an additional 21 hectares have been planted. Alongside regional staples like Riesling, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay, you’ll find Shiraz, Viognier, Gamay, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, and Nebbiolo—each adding a unique voice to the chorus.

The name SISU isn’t a throwaway. It’s a Finnish concept that speaks to a kind of deep-seated grit: extreme courage, resilience, and determination in the face of adversity. It’s not just about toughness—it’s about carrying on long after others would have given up. It’s the perfect word for a venture built on perseverance and faith in the long game.

In their patchwork of soils—Black Dolerite, Red Vertosols and Sandy Loam—Jake and his crew have seeded far more than grapevines—they’ve buried their hopes deep, willing something enduring to rise. Their family is breathing new life into the Upper Coal River, with a cellar door slated for completion by Christmas 2025. It will invite visitors to drive through Richmond and follow the road into the heart of Tasmania’s inland adventures.

To witness the hopes, the highs, and the hurdles of this project is more powerful than simply reading about it. Jake, Mary, and Lillian have poured their love, laughter, sweat, and tears into this mammoth endeavour. Living on the property, their mornings begin bleary-eyed, coffee in hand, as the first light touches Brown Mountain. Their days end face-down in pillows, lulled or sometimes irritated by the chorus of crickets and the soft bleating of ewes. This isn’t just a job—it’s a way of life.

To finally bottle the results and offer them up for judgement is an act of vulnerability like no other—and it’s my privilege to taste what they’ve created.

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2024 SISU Riesling $38

The inaugural release of estate-bottled Riesling marks a confident first step for SISU. It opens with notes of green apple leaf, lime skin, elderflower, and the cool clarity of blue river stone. A gentle fly-mesh of skin grip and a sliver of residual sweetness bring texture and richness without a hint of cloying weight. There’s an aromatic lift of bath salts and the juicy tartness of golden kiwi scooped straight from the skin. Acidity is naturally elevated, arcing gracefully across the palate before melting seamlessly into the body of the wine. Surprisingly full yet delicate, it carries ample flavour and concludes on a clean, dry finish.This doesn’t feel engineered—it feels composed, as if each element was placed intentionally, like a jigsaw. For young vines, this wine already feels at home in the Coal River Valley. It’s a promising tier in SISU’s evolving story. Drink it today with pork belly bao buns and apple-cabbage slaw. 92 Points

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2024 SISU Chardonnay $55

The inaugural release of estate-bottled Chardonnay, the generosity and benevolent flavour of the grape is found here in truckloads. Yellow peach cheeks, golden baked apples and lemon butter scraped over brioche toast. Cashew praline and dustings of cinnamon and grated nutmeg.The palate is poised and polished—nipped and tucked by poised acidity, with oak influence that lends creaminess without veering into char or bitterness. It’s a wine that leans into its curves and contours, finishing with a delicate thread of orange blossom honey and the faint bitterness of almond skin.There’s a confidence here—one that comes not from force, but from balance. Cool-climate freshness underpins the wine’s generous flavour profile, making it immensely drinkable now, with the promise to evolve beautifully over the next 3–5 years. A nice pairing might be with seared blue cod and miso butter. 91 Points

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2024 SISU Pinot Noir $55

The inaugural release of estate-bottled Pinot Noir, has some deeply pigmented ruby and crimson hues. Give it a swift decant, and let the Kordia cherries wash over you. From there, layers unfold: black plum skin, nigella seed and purple basil leaf. The wealth of black fruit is anchored up by the savoury oak spice, lead pencil and clove, whilst its medium bodied, oak shifts and retreats gracefully on the palate. This has its savoury edges but the core of and soul is pure cherry and pit. Acidity carries a fine weave of powdery tannins, while woodsy, almost twiggy herbs add a lingering, earthy dimension that leaves you wanting more. Once again this doesn’t appear as youthful as it really is, there has been wrapping of fruit entwined with smart oak and bunch choices and more than enough clarity of fruit befitting its place. I could sip and ponder on this for quite some time, by a fire with duck salami and a medley of olives. Drink now or will cellar well for 3-4 years further. 93 Points

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