Susan and Michael Papps established their boutique wine brand in 2005. Since then they have come to know and care for the classic and left of centre varieties. In 2010 they purchased their Nuraip Road property with its own estate vineyard and winery sheds. All wines are fermented with wild yeast, unfined and unfiltered. They are also gently basket pressed and go through natural malolactic fermentation with minimal sulphur additions. The single vineyard labels reflect the stuffing inside, graceful and without adornment.
2022 Brumeux Roussanne
95 Points | $43
Lees left in suspension creating a golden haze in the glass. The wine is treated for 10 months in french oak. Fruit comes from the Materne vineyard in the Greenock sub-region with rich loams over red clay at 300m above sea level. Winter melon, peach cheeks and dried chamomile. Sweet glaze pineapple, cashew and honeysuckle. A lovely, even flow across the palate with a chew to the lees.
Acidity rolls in waves and there is a lasting echoing note that seems ‘suspended in time’ – it’s a savoury roast pine nut flavour that provides intrigue. The harmony of this wine is due to the total respect and mastery of the variety whilst maintaining moderate alcohol levels, which should be commended. This may be the most exciting Roussanne I have tried in years. Drinking beautifully now and will age for another 3. Drink with a plump roast chicken, dark meat only.
93 Points | $46
The wine is treated for 10 months in french oak of which 20% was new. Fruit comes from the Materne vineyard in the Greenock sub-region with rich loam over red clay at 300m above sea level. Golden baked apples, quince and lemon balm citrus. Almond praline, sunflower and baked tart shells. The lovely ripeness of yellow citrus fruit takes front and centre supported by a more traditional oak regime. The acidity is succulent and fruit weight feels fleshy and sits snug in the middle palate. Grainy pear nectar, fragrant olive oil and preserved lemon are the lasting flavours with a fresh clean finish and moderate alcohol hoorah! This is a wine many textural white wine lovers would adore. It’s full of flavour density and effortless drinking. Drink now or will cellar for up to 3 years. Pair with clam vongole linguine.
2022 Y& P Vin de Soif Grenache, Cinsault, Mataro
91 Points | $32
Vin de Soif means thirst quencher or that is the most accurate translation of the French saying that we as Aussies come to comprehend. I’ve also been told by a French Sommelier íts basically means “for my mouth” and that too is something I wholeheartedly endorse. Here the winemakers of Yelland & Papps are talking less and instead pouring wine into your glass. Merci. The fruit comes from multiple vineyards and growers in Marananga, Stonewell, Vine Vale and Tanunda.
There is a gathering of black cherries, red raspberries and baked blueberries. Crushed allspice, licorice root and root beer spice. Cola gummies and a hint of cumin and turned earth. The breakdown of varieties doesn’t matter because it’s about the joyousness of coming together, getting along and having a great time. This is medium bodied, full of fruit and spice and all things nice. It would cellar for a few years but better to buy a dozen and share with the ones you love. Drink with your heart and remember wine is for your mouth. Perhaps best with a good old Aussie barbie and some char grilled meats.
2022 Old Vine Grenache
92 Points | $43
Planted on its own roots between 1920-1925 with the addition of 38% whole cluster. The wine matures for 10 months in new French oak puncheons. Black raspberry, blood plums and baked beetroot. Allspice, cardamom and black peppercorn. Richly concentrated on the nose, the wine then takes a sign of relief and opens like a flower on the palate. Juicy mulberry, rosemary leaf with silky tannins and a lovely sway to the fine line of acidity. Cassia bark, cedar and tanned leather, the oak spice is significant. Drink now and will also cellar for a further 6-8 years. Pair with a juicy steak sandwich.
2021 Greenock Shiraz
96 Points | $49
Sourced from vines planted in 1988 on sandy loam soils over a red clay base, the wine is elevaged for 23 months in seasoned French oak vats and puncheons. This is a total feast for the senses and a truly special wine. What hits you first is ripe mulberries and stewed blackberries then sun warmed potting soil, Rosella flowers in syrup and rose bud. Mocha, cinnamon and powdered nutmeg with a recurring blue fruit or violet character that swings on by and keeps luring you in. This 2021 is only beginning to hit its straps, the fruit is pure and the earth tones are grounding. The palate is effortless and acidity soars like an eagle continuing to carry the flavours way beyond the hills. Magnifique. Drink now or cellar for a further 5 years. Pair with rabbit stew or slowed cooked wallaby tail.