Long gone are the days when Trentino, in the far north of Italy, was seen merely as a seasonal playground for skiers and jetsetters, gathering in destinations such as Cortina d’Ampezzo. There is far more to this region than the dramatic scenery of the Dolomites: pristine water percolating from mountain glaciers; limestone soils shaped by the surrounding peaks, which also protect the vineyards by sheltering them from cold northerly winds. Abundant sunshine, fresh mountain air and nutrient-rich soils combine to create a small Eden for grape growers.

Senior Export Area Manager Franco Pedroni of Gruppo Mezzacorona, founded in 1904, lives and breathes the wines and cuisine of Trentino, having been born and raised there. “What else do you need to make great grapes?” he asks. “You retain purity of fruit thanks to the diurnal range: warm temperatures during the day and cold ones at night. Because of this temperature shift, grapes naturally develop thicker skins to protect their seeds. The thicker the skin, the greater the aromatic intensity and concentration.”

This is Trentino’s secret weapon. While the wines effortlessly maintain high levels of natural acidity, they also deliver full-flavoured expression. Red wines offer a wide spectrum of tannin profiles, suited to every palate and even every time of day. In fact, if you’ve ever wandered through the region in the morning, it’s not unusual to see locals enjoying a “breakfast of champions”: bread, eggs, cheese and cold cuts washed down not with coffee, but with light, soft reds such as those made from Schiava.

Mezzacorona began as a cooperative of 13 local families who, over a century ago, reclaimed the marshy land at the valley floor. Today, the group comprises around 1,600 farmers, each tending an average of 1.6 hectares. Since 2001, the cooperative has also established vineyards in Sicily under the Feudo Arancio label, employing local growers there just as it does in Trentino for its Mezzacorona and Castel Firmian brands, guided by the credo that “only locals know their territory like the back of their hand.”

Cooperatives can sometimes raise eyebrows, particularly around the balance between quality and quantity, and the challenge of managing so many growers. Pedroni is quick to respond. “Everything is done by hand. In Trentino especially, the vineyard layouts are so dramatic that mechanisation is nearly impossible. Farmers are well compensated for their work, and in difficult vintages like 2014, marked by heavy rain and frost, grape selection was extremely strict. That sacrifice was properly rewarded.”

Pedroni also emphasises the deep knowledge each grower has of their own plots, supported by extensive micro-vinifications that allow individual parcels to express themselves. Sustainability is another cornerstone. “We began working on sustainability in the 1960s and ’70s, when Italy was emerging from poverty and the government encouraged companies to invest in the region. We favour biodiversity in our vineyards: we don’t remove weeds, and we promote a variety of plants so that bees can thrive.” Today, the group is certified under SQNPI (Sistema di Qualità Nazionale di Produzione Integrata).

“It’s a national certification that takes six years, three more than organic,” Pedroni explains. “We don’t pursue organic certification: vineyards here are very small, and if one grower isn’t organic, the neighbour can’t be either. We prefer to offer what we can genuinely guarantee, rather than follow marketing trends.”

One thing is for sure: there is a whole universe of authentic flavours to discover in Trentino. And next time you’re tempted to reach for your usual Shiraz or Pinot Noir, consider Teroldego or Lagrein instead. Not only are they genetically related to those varieties, but they also pair beautifully with speck and roasted chestnuts. It doesn’t get more UNESCO-recognised than this.

2020 Rotari Brut Riserva Metodo Classico Trento DOC

A vivacious, fine line of bead. The nose is captivating from the start: pain d’épices, fragrant white blossom, freshly baked milk bread, cultured butter, pine nuts, bleached almonds, saffron, and ginger. On the palate, the perlage is delicate and seductive in its caress; the acidity reverberates through notes of preserved lemon, verbena, poached peach, quince, and all the lovely autolytic characters. There’s a juicy drinkability at the core of this sparkling, with a touch of residual sugar adding to the velvety texture. The bubbles mellow slightly yet retain a good dose of finesse and fine length. Trento DOC rocks!

93 points | RRP: $40

2023 Mezzacorona Ventessa Pinot Grigio Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT

Only 90 calories for a 50 oz serving. A timely, fashionable drink before we rock the bikini on the Australian Riviera, or the Gold Coast, hey?! Aside from the shits and giggles, here’s a Grigio with a decent nose, built on pineapple and quince, yellow apples and Packham pears, hawthorn and ginger, with a squeeze of yuzu for good measure. On the palate, it’s flavoursome, reminding me more of an Alsatian Pinot Gris than anything else. The length may be conservative, but it’s a fruit bomb that tickles every single taste bud.

90pts | RRP: $20

2024 Mezzacorona Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC

A frisky, fragrant style, with delicate accents of Packham pears, lemon peel, and freshly cut grass. Über-refreshing and zingy, it has an interesting mid-palate momentum that makes it more than a simple, easy-to-drink, party-on Pinot Grigio. And if proof is needed, at this price point it truly over-delivers.

91pts | RRP: $20

2023 Mezzacorona Pinot Grigio Maso di Mezzo Trentino DOC 

There’s a bit of history to dive into with this one. A Maso was the traditional farmhouse where people devoted their lives to cultivating vines since ancient times. Mezzo here doesn’t refer to “half,” but pays tribute to the village of Mezzocorona in Trentino, once known simply as Mezzo. This isn’t your usual light Pinot Grigio; it’s a little more concentrated, offering an orchestrated mix of yellow and citrus fruits, yellow apples, Nashi pears, kumquats, and a floral accent of frangipani. The palate is textural yet maintains a clean line of tension, with vibrant freshness that keeps the flavours happily bouncing for a moment.

93pts | RRP: $30

2022 Mezzacorona Chardonnay Masodi Mezzo Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT

A mild mix of tropical and yellow stone fruit, Nashi pear, yellow apples, and peaches-and-cream, though without the overly creamy–sweet lick you sometimes find in New World Chardonnays. The palate shows a discerning textural bite, but it lacks the driving power to carry the flavours through to the finish, which ends restrained on its fruit expression.

91pts | RRP: $30

2023 Castel Firmian Pinot Grigio Trentino DOC

Fairly aromatic on the nose, almost reminiscent of a Muscat or Gewürztraminer. Notes of dried apricot, Turkish delight, and dried pineapple, it shows some evolution, evident from its golden colour. Fleshy, with loads of texture on the palate, this purely aromatic little number has enough suppleness to avoid flabbiness. Moderate length, but overall, a delightful drink.

92pts | RRP: $35

2022 Castel Firmian Pinot Nero Trentino DOC

A visible orange tinge in the colour. On the nose, a smoky, herbal character leaps out straight away, followed by wild berries, mulberries, cranberries, and red currants, along with potpourri, incense, essential oils, and a woody-like, amber-reminiscent quality. Juniper berries, cloves, and burnt sage complete the picture. The palate is a little less intense in flavours, with supple tannins and a slightly savoury/herbal edge, resulting in a light-bodied style.

92pts | RRP: $35

2023 Mezzacorona Castel Firmian Lagrein Trentino DOC

A deep ruby with a welcoming whiff of VA, like a “Ciao!” with open arms. It quickly settles, revealing notes of Morello cherries, black currants, juniper berries, cracked black pepper, crushed violets, dark chocolate, and turned earth. On the palate, red and black berries meld with fine-grained tannins and salivating acidity. The medium-length finish offers plenty of drinkability, ending on a salty, plummy note that is as interesting as it is inviting.

92 points | RRP: $35

2024 Feudo Arancio Grillo Sicilia DOC

What a cracking wine. There is a discerning intensity of aromas, with an array of notes that recalls the sunny Italian island: candied lemon, mandarin peel, orange blossom, crunchy red apple, pineapple, and kumquat. There is enough mid-palate concentration to carry the flavours, which feel juicy and phenolic, with a bitter-sweet balance that makes this wine a great introduction to a local variety, Grillo, often overlooked on the global stage.

95pts | RRP: $20

2022 Feudo Arancio Nero d’Avola Sicilia DOC

A delicious explosion of blueberries and blood plums, raspberries and blackcurrants, with macerated roses and milk chocolate, and spices like cloves and pink peppercorns. Refreshing and biting, with ferrous-like, granular tannins, utterly drinkable, ending with an inviting bitter bite on the back of the palate, making this Nero a fantastic food companion.

92pts | RRP: $20

2019 Feudo Arancio Rosso Sicilia Riserva DOC

The wine shows a brick hue, appearing quite dusty and tertiary at first glance, with aromas of dried black and blue fruits and dried rose petals. Pungent spices, undergrowth, and dried porcini mushrooms add complexity. The palate still retains some freshness, but the body has slimmed down, despite tannins still showing a graphite-like scratch. The finish is rather conservative.

90pts | RRP: $40