San Polo will be a name not familiar to all Brunello fans. It’s a fairly new winery, founded in 2007, but is based on an estate including vines planted back in 1990. It’s a star that is on the rise thanks to founders including Marilisa Allegrini, well known for the quality of wines from her family’s estate in Valpolicella. Little expense has been spared in Montalcino and it shows in the wines, which are regional benchmarks. Vineyard locations at higher altitudes also give the resulting wines an almost elegant style and in 2017 the winery achieved organic status.
San Polo Rosso di Montalcino 2016
92 Points – $59
2016 was a super vintage in Tuscany and this wine shows it. And while it is only a Rosso it shows great sangiovese character and the richness of wines from this superb appellation. It’s highly complex and is in a good spot right now, showing not only youthful red fruits but there is also a broad array of aged characters from tobacco to baked earth and spice. The palate shows fantastic balance between acidity and sandy tannins that help to draw out a supple finish. Drink over the next 5 years.
San Polo Brunello di Montalcino 2012
95 Points – $120
You don’t get access to these kind of wines everyday – 2012 Brunello that is still quite youthful but just starting to show its savoury side. There are layers of powerful blackberry, tar and liquorice fruits with a dusting of savoury spice, animal skins and violets. There is good energy behind the fruit which follows on the palate, where it is matched by firmish but fine tannins and juicy acidity. Length and balance are impressive and this wine is at a great stage of its life right now but has plenty more to give over the next 10 to 15 years.
San Polo Brunello di Montalcino 2013
94 Points – $120
This shows a different side to Brunello thanks to the baking 2013 vintage. It’s beautifully expressive and ready to go with classic red cherry, baked earth, spice and cedar aromas with old oak very much in the background. That boldness of fruit is mirrored in the mouth with generous, fleshy fruit underscored by robust, chewy tannins. It’s a crowd pleaser that has the stuffing to drink well over the next decade.
San Polo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2012
97 Points – $250
A beautiful modern expression of Riserva Brunello that has lapped up 36 months new large French Oak and provides a super cellaring proposition. It is powerful yet composed with blackberry, leather and earthy fruits well matched to very high quality oak. The fruit walks a tightrope between dense fruit, structure and acidity but somehow also remains light on its feet and in perfect balance with a seemingly endless finish. It’s almost Margaux like with its combination of understated power with a seamless palate but also has retained its Italian personality. Still embryonic at almost 10 years of age, this is a 30-year wine.
Purchase the San Polo wines here.
