Vintage 2023 in the Canberra District was a testing time. Summer turned into autumn and still not a grape had been picked at Clonakilla. “We had such a slow start in vintage 2023 that I worried if we would get ripeness in time,” says Clonakilla chief winemaker, Tim Kirk. “The patience of Job was required.” Winter was coming but by mid-April Kirk was saved. “Vintage 2023,” he says, “really feels like a classic cool climate year, seriously cool, the like of which we used to see regularly in the 90s and perhaps less so in the last decade or two.” Vintage 2024, by contrast, was in his words “beautiful.” The seasonal contrast is noted and enjoyed in the two new releases this month from Clonakilla: 2023 Shiraz Viognier and the 2024 Riesling.

The 2023 Shiraz Viognier is a pepper laden treat for the senses. “The quality and volume of spice we received has to be smelt to be believed,” he adds. Kirk has gone on the record as saying that he considers 10% Viognier in the blend to be too much. Which raises the question of the role of Viognier in such a cool, pepper-driven Shiraz season such as ’23. “I reckon the main benefit of fermenting a little Viognier with cool climate Shiraz is the warming and rounding impact it has on the beautiful but slightly leaner aromas you get in cool vintages – lots of pepper and spice for example,” he adds. “We tend to increase the Viognier component ever so slightly in those years.” In 2023, it sits at 6%.

As for the 2024 Riesling, well, it maintains one of the most consistent quality runs of any Riesling in Australia. And in 2024 that touch of residual sugar – 5.0g/L – softens the edges of what is some brisk acidity (9.0g/L).

Clonakilla Riesling 2024
One sniff and you’re hooked on the prettiness of it all, the citrus blossom scents, the wildflowers mingling with bright citrus notes of lemon and lime. Clonakilla ‘24 Riesling is so fine and gentle, almost delicate in aroma, but don’t be deceived. There is a considerable depth of complexity and flavour lurking in the glass behind a strikingly brisk level of lemony bright acidity. The wine’s a mere babe at this early stage with a solid core of lime cordial tang, citrus and lemon zest and pith with ginger and lemongrass in waiting in the background. A gentle texture brings forth all kinds of food matching possibilities, while a sweet lemon drop zip brings plenty of immediate drink now appeal. That zesty acid crunch is a real feature. The building blocks for a bright future are in place and it will only get better and better from here.

95pts
Bottle Price: $40
Drink: 2024-2040

Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2023
Just when we think we know the Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier style – all those red berries and rosehip aromatics – up pops a couple of cool years one after the other and with them a peppery spice explosion. Following on from the 2022 Shiraz Viognier comes another cooler-than-cool example where the drinker is treated to a wonderful world of spice, fully laden with heady black pepperiness. It’s a wow! Cherry, cranberry, bramble, sage, black pepper, rosemary and spice. It’s a chockful aroma attack. The aromatic intensity is heightened on the palate with black peppery spice a strong feature that also brings real energy, highlighting the bright cherry, red fruits and sage. Tannins are cherry pip savoury dry. Has class and medium-bodied elegance to burn but with a youthful personality that just keeps on going.

Fun Fact. Question: How many different clones can go into a Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier? Answer: A lot! In ’23, Tim Kirk employed 12 Shiraz clones of the 15 grown in the vineyard and 4 Viognier clones. They were all co-fermented.

96pts
Bottle Price: $136
Drink: 2024-2038