Main Ridge Estate is a rather curious winery. Essential to the history of Mornington Peninsula and responsible for decades of stunning wines – Chardonnay and Pinot Noir – one suspects that many of today’s winelovers know very little about it and may have never even tried the wines. A lot of this is down the modesty of founder Nat White – he and wife Rosalie established the Estate in 1975 – who largely let his wines speak for him. If ever a winery deserved fanfare and parades, this was it, however, that was most definitely not Nat’s style.

When they sold to the Sexton family in 2015 (yes, time does fly), naturally there was certainty that the era was over and it would be all doom and gloom from here. Of course, it has proved to be anything but that. The Estate is small, production extremely limited and the customers so loyal that the wines often sold out quickly and many found it nearly impossible to ever get hold of these gems. The Sextons are expanding, but the core wines remain. Most importantly, the quality has never wavered. Sadly, Nat passed away earlier this year, but he has left an unmatched legacy, now in the safe hands of the Sextons.

Nat White was not the first to plant vineyards on the Peninsula. We have to go back to the 1880s for that, but it did not last. It is believed that a small patch of Pinot Noir was planted in the 1930s, and still survives today, though it was intended for altar wine at the time. Seppelts had a crack in the 1950s, planting 100 acres of vines, but they were destroyed by fire in 1967. This time, it did not take long for a revival.

The Myer established Elgee Park in 1972 and then Nat planted his Pinot Noir in 1975. He and Rosalie had purchased a lemon orchard – it proved an inspired choice – and also opened the region’s first winery in 1978. In those days, it was assumed that varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling and even Pinot Meunier (which seems so odd now) would rule (remember also that this is only a very few years after the first Chardonnay was ever released in Australia – Stoniers planted the first Chardonnay in the region in 1978, but with the intention of making sparkling wine). Main Ridge’s first vintage was 1980, released a year later. The efforts of Nat and Rosalie are certainly not the only reason for the success of Mornington Peninsula, but they undoubtedly played a crucial role. There are now over 200 vineyards totalling some 1,100 hectares in the region, with more than fifty wineries, and every single one owes a debt to Nat.

Today, Mornington Peninsula is responsible for 9% of the Pinot Noir planted in Australia, making it the third largest region in the country for this variety. Despite the success of Chardonnay and other varieties, Pinot Noir occupies more than half of the vineyards planted. Needless to say, at Main Ridge and most other places, the Cabernet, Riesling and even the Pinot Meunier did not last long.

Like many, I expect, I was in a little bit of awe and trepidation when I was about to meet Nat and Rosalie for the first time, many years ago. After all, these were pioneers in every sense. Needless to say, I should have had absolutely no qualms at all. Two of the nicest and most welcoming people one could ever hope to meet. If there is a single description of Nat that one hears time and time again, he was a true gentleman.

For many years, lovers of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay enjoyed the Estate’s Old Vines, Acre and Half Acre wines. For what seems a relatively new region, it is amazing to think that the current releases of the Old Vine and Half Acre Pinots are from fifty-year-old vines, just one more factor in the incredible depth and complexity that the wines offer. There are a trio of clones on offer here – 115, D2V5 and MV6. The early success of these wines encouraged other wineries, as they were established, to concentrate on these varieties.

For those who have enjoyed Nat and Rosalie’s wines over many years, you will no doubt be aware that standards have never wavered under the new regime with the Sexton family (I love their unofficial motto – what would Nat do?). Those who might be new to Main Ridge Estate, it is undoubtedly time to seek out these wonderful wines and start including them in your cellar (and, of course, drinking them). The latest releases are superb and deserving of everyone’s attention.

Main Ridge Estate Old Vine Chardonnay 2025
97 Points | $100

It was with great sadness at the wine industry learnt of the passing of Nat White, founder of Main Ridge Estate, with his wife Rosalie, in 1975. He was one of the pioneers of the Mornington Peninsula region, responsible for many truly extraordinary wines, and simply one of the nicest people you are ever likely to encounter. Even though Nat and Rosalie sold the estate in 2015, they remained closely linked and the Sexton family obviously greatly valued their input. Amazing to think that this wine is now from 50-year-old vines. Fermentation was with native yeasts and maturation in French barriques, 50% of them new, for eleven months. The wine underwent malolactic fermentation. Just 100 dozen made. Lemon/pale gold in colour, the nose reveals aromas of cumquats, nectarines, stonefruits, peaches and hazelnuts. Even a hint of gunflint and oatmeal. An ethereal style, this is exquisitely balanced. A wine of finesse, elegance, drive and focus. There is a gentle flick of acidity, and the wine has quite amazing length with intensity maintained throughout. A wonderful Chardonnay, this is surely a fifteen-year proposition.

Main Ridge Estate Old Vine Pinot Noir 2025
97 Points| $100

From the original vines planted on the estate by Nat and Rosalie White in 1975, hence 50-year-old vines, there are a trio of clones – 115, D2V5 and MV6 – in use. The team did not incorporate any whole bunches but after seventeen days on skins, fermentation was with native yeasts before maturation for fifteen months in French barriques, 25% of which was new. 75 dozen made. Dark mauve with a garnet rim, aromas weave through notes of cherries, cassis, florals, spices, violets, garden herbs and there are hints of sour cherries on the finish. Wonderful length here, a Pinot that is balanced, a wine of finesse. A superb Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir, there is a line of juicy acidity maintaining the energy. No reason it can’t live for at least ten to twenty years. Love it.

Main Ridge Estate Half Acre Pinot Noir 2025
98 Points| $150

This wine comes from the oldest Pinot Noir vines on the Mornington Peninsula, part of the original plantings by Nat and Rosalie White. The team do not use whole bunches in the fermentation, which is with native yeasts, before maturation in French barriques, 40% of which are new. Maturation is for fifteen months. 125 dozen made. An utterly majestic Pinot Noir from Mornington Peninsula. Dark crimson in colour with a magenta edge, this is a wine of depth and complexity. Dare one say that there is even a nod to Richebourg here. Immaculately balanced, there is intensity maintained throughout, but also finesse. Aromas of dark cherries, animal hides, plums, cranberries, cold tea, florals, milk chocolate, spices and anise weave in and out, giving the wine a wonderful start to the complexity that is surely ahead of it. A glorious nose. Meanwhile, the texture is seamless and seductive with great length, focus and energy. A brilliant Pinot Noir which will provide pleasure for twenty years. No doubt, Nat would be so proud.