McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate Rare Tawny

McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate, now under the ownership of Calabria Family Wines, senses the time is right to promote its stable of aged fortifieds. Let’s hope it is right. Indeed, the company says it has noted a “resurgence” in the last five years for fortifieds. With refreshed packaging, McWilliam’s is starting out with a release of aged tawnies. Rare – with an average age of 20 years – arrives fully freshened and alive in the glass. The expectation with any rare fortified is a range of complex flavours, but what is often missing is freshness. No such problem here. Dark tawny in colour. A lavish tapestry of red fruit and old oak aged aromas of malt, burnt butter, rancio nuttiness, dried fruits, plum pudding. The palate shows richness and depth with sweet toffeed walnuts, honeyed vanilla, raisin and a lovely brandied spirit lift and warmth. Tawnies are made for cuddling up to and this rare tawny hits the spot. Luscious and clean to the end, and fresh. Experienced McWilliam’s senior winemaker, Russell Cody, knows his fortifieds. It’s good to see the company willing – and more importantly able – with an aged solera in place to give the fortified wines category a real shake.