Oliver’s Taranga 2022

Six generations of growers and one winemaker make up the Oliver family that have over 182 years of connection to their land in Seaview, McLaren Vale. Wines are sustainably made from their Taranga vineyards and the rest of their grapes on their 100 hectare property go to other operations like d’Arenberg, Penfolds and Wirra Wirra (you might have heard of them).

2022 Oliver’s Taranga Vermentino – 89 Points
The 2022 Vermentino opens with plenty of fresh poured pear nectar, yellow grapefruit skin and golden apple. There is a white Hyacinth perfume and element of elderflower. The wine has a lovely ripeness to it that again invokes a nectar quality, almost as if you are going to get that slight grainy texture from pear juice on the finish. Instead it’s a luxuriously silky palate with flavour from go to whoa. A generous wine that would compliment any seafood dish with a buttery lemon sauce.

2022 Oliver’s Taranga Fiano – 92 Points
It’s always exciting to taste Fiano of late, with so many different takes on the ancient Campanian grape. Here whole berries are pressed and 10% of the juice is fermented in large format seasoned French oak. There is lemon and lime citrus, quite calamansi in style with notes of golden kiwi and yellow plum. Creamed honey and almond butter linger with that packed out mid palate that makes Fiano so lavish and interesting. Driving acidity gives this wine additional length and immediately makes you want another sip. A delicious wine that would be impossible to go past with a dish that utilised crispy chicken skin. Like Africola’s chicken skin sandwich, mmm now that will have you pronouncing the grape correctly Fee AHHHHHH no!

2022 Oliver’s Taranga Chica Mencia Rosé – 90 Points
A deeply coloured hue that makes sense considering Mencia’s naturally high pigment. What jumps out of the glass first is pink peppercorns followed by spiced cherries. A compote of red cherry flesh, cinnamon, licorice root and rooibos tea. Intriguing. The tarter red fruit presents itself on the palate, with cranberry, pomegranate and maraschino cherries. There is a bit of tannin grip washed with bright acidity and a savoury tea leaf finish. This is not an attempt at a southern French style and nor should it be. This is Rosé made with a Mencia mentality and a very welcome addition to the world of pale pink forget me nots. Bravo. Drink with cured meats like Capocollo wrapped blood plums, is that a thing? It should be.

2021 Oliver’s Taranga RW Grenache – 92 Points
Sourced from bush vine material the wine is equally a mix of red plums and picked blackberries with fresh tomato vine and rosemary stems, leaning to mace and cinnamon on the finish. Acidity is juicy and energetic. The wine sees 50% French oak puncheons and the rest goes into stainless steel maybe accounting for the bright and weightless feel. Considering Grenache can feel pulled down by its significant alcohol content, this is nimble and buoyant. Plenty of complexity and subtle nuances from fruit, herb and spice. An uplifting style – try it with a master stock braised duck and soy marinated eggs.

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