UMAMU Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
- 93
- $72
- Drink by: 2024-2034
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This Margaret River Cabernet has the benefit of a good stint in the cellar before release, to everyone’s advantage. That doesn’t mean it couldn’t do with a little more. The colour is a deep maroon and aromas swirl around – tobacco leaves, chocolate, spices, plums, dry herbs, blackberries and mulberries – pretty much exactly what you’d expect for a classic Cabernet. Very well structured, there are firm, even slightly gravelly tannins. All is well balanced. Overall, the impression is of a fine red which is from the slightly burly end of the spectrum, or perhaps exuding power is a better way to look at it. I’d be inclined to put this at the back of the cellar, even with the six years headstart, and leave it for a few more. Then enjoy it over the next decade. An excellent Margaret River Cab, expect the score to rise in coming years.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
