Hugh Hamilton Aroma Pagoda 2021
- 90
- $27.50
- Drink by: 2021-2024
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From the Adelaide Hills, this is a rather uncommon blend of Riesling (63%), Pinot Gris (19%) and Gewürztraminer (18%). To be honest, my immediate thought was that this would be a wine for early drinking, and while there is no reason not to, I think it might have a surprisingly long life ahead of it. Hugh, a fifth generation winemaker (and daughter, Mary, sixth generation), are well known for their rather idiosyncratic naming of wines (not Chester Osborn bat#@&% crazy names, but some curious ones).
Here, “layers of exotic aromatics, structured yet elegant, a temple to flavour”. Fair enough. The aim is to make a wine chock full of flavour and you’d have to say, ‘mission accomplished’. The wine is a very pale yellow, with a soft and pleasing texture. The aromas involve spices, florals and a confectionary note which is most appealing. Toss in some stonefruit and white jasmine notes. There is a well crafted base to this wine, carrying it to an impressive finish, which does maintain the intensity of flavour. Drink now or for the next 2-3 years, perhaps more.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
