Hugh Hamilton Aroma Pagoda 2021


From the Adelaide Hills, this is a rather uncommon blend of Riesling (63%), Pinot Gris (19%) and Gewürztraminer (18%). To be honest, my immediate thought was that this would be a wine for early drinking, and while there is no reason not to, I think it might have a surprisingly long life ahead of it. Hugh, a fifth generation winemaker (and daughter, Mary, sixth generation), are well known for their rather idiosyncratic naming of wines (not Chester Osborn bat#@&% crazy names, but some curious ones).

Here, “layers of exotic aromatics, structured yet elegant, a temple to flavour”. Fair enough. The aim is to make a wine chock full of flavour and you’d have to say, ‘mission accomplished’. The wine is a very pale yellow, with a soft and pleasing texture. The aromas involve spices, florals and a confectionary note which is most appealing. Toss in some stonefruit and white jasmine notes. There is a well crafted base to this wine, carrying it to an impressive finish, which does maintain the intensity of flavour. Drink now or for the next 2-3 years, perhaps more.

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