Penfolds Bin 138 Barossa Valley Shiraz Grenache Mataro 2019

From a hot Barossa vintage comes a mighty fine Bin 138. Originally inspired by the wines of the Southern Rhone, it lives up to that expectation with a full-bodied, rich and flavoursome beat. The sweet confection qualities of the past, often an annoying interruption, to be frank, are but a memory.

Warm, summer earth, black plums, chocolate-covered cherries, dusty oak. Shiraz takes the lead as usual – 70% – and it’s sourced from the Kalimna vineyard (older vines are preferred for Bin 138) which lends itself to dense, concentrated earthy fruit. The winemaker suggests this wine is “Barossa translated differently.” Not sure what he means. This is how I like the Barossa, an expression of ripeness and boldness, but delivered within a taut frame of tannins that finishes clean. Maybe not as long as previous releases, but it hits the spot.