Port Phillip Estate Balnarring Chardonnay 2020
- 93
- $36
- Drink by: 2022-2028
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The Port Phillip Balnarring vineyard has three parcels of Chardonnay, but for this wine the fruit comes exclusively from the oldest plantings. Originally planted in 1997, the team took control of the vineyard a decade later. Miocene sedimentary soils, for those into dirt. Gentle whole bunch pressing into French oak barriques (a mix of 228 and 350 litres), 15% new, with fermentation by natural yeasts. 11 months ageing on lees, with bâtonnage avoided. Pale straw, there are gentle notes of citrus. This is the more refined of the two vineyard Chardonnays. A steely backing here, nicely balanced. Lemon, ginger and pear notes. More citrus than stonefruit, but notes of both. This is complex, but it is also certainly approachable yet with good tension. Concentrated and with really good length, this is seriously impressive.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
