Port Phillip Estate Essay Gamay 2022
- 92
- $44
- Drink by: 2023-2028
Share
As the old Python team used to say, ‘and now for something completely different’. Gamay from the Mornington Peninsula. It seems that almost forever, Gamay has been seen as nothing more than wannabee Pinot Noir. Some pleasant fruit-forward wines, but never serious. And responsible for that once amazingly popular race, to bring forth the first Beaujolais Nouveau – I suspect those not around back then could not possibly imagine how excited the world (not just the wine world) got over the attempts to get this wine to the markets every November. But things have changed. Anyone following the new wave of Beaujolais from emerging producers will know just how thrilling this variety can be. Great to see some serious Gamay finally being made here. The fruit for this came from David Lloyd (Eldridge Estate), who has been the grape’s champion for many years. David sold up in 2022 and this was the last fruit from his reign. The wine saw nine months in a mix of older French oak. A lovely limpid purple colour. The aromas moved through dried herbs, freshly harvested beetroots, dark berries, root vegetables and a hint of woodsmoke. Alluring nose but we move to a more savoury style on the palate with focus and length. Enjoy now and over the next five years. Not second rate Pinot, this is first rate Gamay.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
