Robert Stein Half Dry Riesling RS15 2022
- 94
- $50
- Drink by: 2022-2032
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There is a pleasing trend whereby we are seeing some emerging Rieslings offering various degrees of sweetness – as they often did many years ago. Not necessarily botrytis-level stuff, but sometimes, just a hint to help fill out the palate and offer a delightful point of difference. In addition, they tend to have the ability to age surprisingly well. ‘Half Dry’ is a nice way to put it. The fruit here came from the Angullong Vineyard at Millthorpe near Orange in NSW. A slow and cool ferment which was stopped when the residual sweetness sat at 15 grams/litre. The wine spent a further four months in tank on lees, with occasional stirring, the intention being to enhance the texture.
A very pale, near dilute yellow. Lovely aromas here, attractive lemony notes, florals, orange rind and even a touch of a baked lemon meringue character (does one bake meringues?). Good balance and impressive length, and it sure does have that seductive texture. Well cellared bottles will age easily for a decade or more. This would be ideal for enjoying over summer with a bowl of fresh berries but be in no hurry.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
