Viveur Shiraz 2022

Adelaide Hills, basket pressed and matured in oak. This range of wines is certainly focused on fun. The labels are graced with animal characters that represent the style of the wine in the bottle. In this case, a velvet-robed, spice-trading hippo: one might expect something rotund and weighty. Out of the glass like a jet, the nose is focused and direct. Dark blackberries and skins, a crushed stone minerality, liquorice strap, salted plum and Dutch liquorice, Promite and toasted vanilla bean. The palate is surprisingly lifted, and nubile, mille-feuille-like layers of shimmering acid keep the density of fruit lifted. Tannins are fine but chewy and take their time to build. Perhaps a hippo in a tutu would have been more appropriate? This is a big wine, but its elegance and deftness keep it lighter-framed than one would imagine. An enjoyable Shiraz to drink in its youth.