Wolf Blass Black Label Cabernet Shiraz Malbec 2021

For some, this is the epitome of the Blass winemaking philosophy. Three grapes, three South Australian regions close to the founder’s heart – Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek – and the winemaker’s art of blending on show. The winemaker in question is Alex Mackenzie. He does a mighty fine job with this Cabernet dominant (52%) blend, taking the best wines of the vintage – as per the Black Label philosophy – and weaving them together with sensitivity and care. The fruit covers the gamut from black to blue, there are savoury flourishes in smoked deli meats countered nicely by toasty oak and studded by pockets of spice, vanilla and chocolate. The wine carries a friendly approachability, but there is also a reserved elegance, the middle palate indicates as much with a strong, tannic forcefield in place providing both structure and stature. Love the versatility of this wine, layered, warm, savoury and delivered with class, and yet with so much still in reserve.