Brokenwood IV-Mendoza Chardonnay 2023
- 95
- $120
- Drink by: 2024-2034
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For the first time since 2016, the team have considered the fruit here – their vineyard neighbours Giaconda in Beechworth, so that alone should excite all Chardy lovers – of sufficient quality to make what they call their “Supa-Chardonnay” (clearly, education is not a priority in the Hunter – how hard is it to spell ‘super’?). Whole bunch pressing, wild yeasts, a combination of 500-litre puncheons and 228-litre barriques, all French and 40% new, with a further nine months’ maturation. Basically, the team have combined a fantastic vineyard giving quality fruit in an excellent year with their own winemaking skills and innovation, and come up with a cracker. The colour here is a gleaming pale gold. This is already exhibiting significant complexity and is a beautifully crafted Chardonnay with a dazzling mix of elegance and intensity. There is quality oak here but integration is proceeding exquisitely. There are notes of smoky stone fruits, grapefruit, cashews, figs, peaches and cashews. A seamless style with a decadent texture, there is fine acidity, superb balance, excellent length and that intensity never wavers. An eight to ten year proposition.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
