Hesketh G.A.R. Great Australian Red Coonawarra Cabernet/McLaren Vale Shiraz 2019

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What a great wine title: G.A.R. It’s reason enough to get almost teary-eyed about Australia’s truly indigenous red blend of cabernet and shiraz and why it is so darn good. These two grapes were made for each other: the stiff, upper-lipped cabernet provides the structure and classic shape while relaxed, generously fruited shiraz provides the warmth and approachability.

And the two regions involved – Coonawarra and McLaren Vale – and the two families – Hardy and Hesketh – are South Australian, which is fitting because that’s where the great Aussie blend has its home and biggest fan base.

G.A.R. (they have to trademark those initials!) arrives in youthful, purple-garnet shades. Coonawarra cabernet takes the lead in aroma with bush mint, dark plum, leafy blackberry, anise, while Vale shiraz contributes a deep earthiness.

Cabernet steps up on the palate with trademark firmness of tannin and structure with both grape varieties unfolding a bevy of black fruits, mint, earth, spice and a light touch of herbal leafiness. Oak is nicely integrated. Tannins are firm but not intrusive. It spreads itself long across a supple, almost sinewy, palate. And so ageworthy, too.

Jeni Port
Wine critic at Winepilot

Jeni Port is one of Australia’s top wine communicators. Based in Melbourne, Jeni created the first wine column in the (then) Sun News-Pictorial before moving over to The Age and becoming that paper’s longest-serving wine writer. Over the years she has written for most Australian wine magazines and these days calls WinePilot home. She is also a Tasting Panel member on the Halliday Wine Companion. She was named Wine Communicator of the Year and Legend of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival in 2014 and in 2018 Legend of the Vine. She is a founding board member of Australian Women In Wine and is the co-deputy chair of Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards and China’s Wine List of the Year Awards.

Wine writer and critic
Pilot
Date
Variety: Red Wine, Shiraz