Hewitson Old Garden Mourvedre 2018

A little piece of history here from probably the oldest Mourvedre vineyard in the world, dating back to 1853. There are only 8 rows left and if this was in Burgundy or Bordeaux it would be $1000 per bottle. It’s Mourvedre though, so don’t expect fireworks. This is a variety that reveals its charms over two or three hours, ideally in front of an open fire, but that’s just me.

It’s super shy and Dean Hewitson has given it 20 months in new French oak, with 50% whole bunch in the ferment. That means bunches of grapes with their stems thrown in as well, which also brings the fruit back. It is a wine that is hard to read on day 1 but with a bit of air, and time, showed its mettle. Layers of ripe fleshy fruits – bright blackberry but then underneath is a core of more hearty bone broth, brambly, earthy aromas and great energy coming through from those old vines. The palate is all about structure – it’s long and strong driven by acidity and tannins with fruit power and length to burn. But there is also delicious underlying delicacy and life to this wine. A superb Mourvedre expression – I can’t wait to see how this evolves over the next decade, or two….