Luda Mala Chardonnay 2025

An outstanding debut from Luda Mala. This could very well be Australia’s best $35 Chardonnay. The fruit is dank, dense and detailed, with pomelo pith, lemon shortbread, yuzu and mandarin oil. It’s concentrated yet restrained, clean yet unapologetically unpolished, and clearly built by knowledgeable hands. As I’m writing this, it’s tightly wound (Feb 2026), a wee baby, really. The third glass will be the best, and I think it’s only going to get better with a few beats. And a decant. Made from 100% Gingin clone, it’s no surprise the acidity is abundant and framing, bringing power and salinity to match the impressive concentration of fruit. Lemon sorbet, kaffir lime leaf, warm concrete after summer rain, and a subtle flick of radish and fennel. The length is fabulous, driven and sustained.