M Burton Riesling 1

I like Matt Burton’s give it a go attitude. Multi-vintage wines and throwing lots of different winemaking techniques to work complexity into the wine. It reminds me of Non-Vintage Champagne, without the bubbles. This is a fascinating Riesling and a must-have for fans of the variety, local and international.

Four different vintages, 2018, 2019, 2020 and 2021 from vineyards at Murrumbateman and Gundaroo near Canberra. A mix of oak and steel ferments as well with different levels of solids in the ferment, some wild with extended time in barrel for a handful of parcels. It is an absolute cracker and probably the best wine yet out of Gundog Estate. It actually reminds me a bit of Chenin Blanc with its savoury layers and texture but also with energetic acidity. Sweet floral, pithy aromas are joined by chalk and lanolin, with notes of guava and nutty barrrel ferment. Then dry, fresh, and linear, the palate is expressive but reserved, more classic Riesling lines but also with exceptional texture and balance before settling into a long and engaging finish. It feels young, very young, like it has plenty to give over the next 5, 10 maybe 20 years. It’s hard to guess how long this will last in that it is almost unparalleled in the world of wine. 94 points may look a little mean too.