Oliver’s Taranga Vineyards Fiano 2023

Fiano is proving to be a champion variety in Australia and I’m here for it. Originally from Campania, this heat and drought tolerant variety is part of the Oliver family’s response to climate change. It smells like slicing into a yuzu, as the oil in the skin and spritz of the juice enliven the air. There’s white nectarine and Frosty Fruit icy poles while makrut lime leaf, a nuttiness and salty seashell minimality adds complexity. It tastes like biting into a Nashi pear, with a fascinating texture that sits somewhere between the enzymatic tang of pineapple flesh and the flaky crisp of a water cracker. I’m struggling to come up with a pairing suggestion because there’s very little this wine won’t be delightful with.