Robert Goulley Chablis Premier Cru Vaucoupin 2023
- 93
- $110
- Drink by: 2025-2033
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The Robert Goulley Chablis range is part of the Domaine Gueguen empire, based in the region. Premier Cru Chablis is an underappreciated gem, these days – once, it was very much top of mind (look only to the wines of which Charles Dickens wrote, and drank, for evidence). Vaucoupin is a highly regarded Cru. The Kimmeridgian clay is shallow here and the result is a degree of elegance not always seen in other top Crus in the region. Deep lemon, there are exotic spice notes with florals and citrus. This is a finely balanced example with the typical Chardonnay notes of white peaches and melon interwoven with hints of lemon spongecake. There is a seamless structure to this wine, a hint of a creamy note on the palate, juicy acidity and very good length. This is a fine example of Vaucoupin for enjoying over the next six to eight years.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
