Thompson Estate The Specialist Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2020

The Specialist? Well, it might refer to a Margaret River wine producer specialising in the region’s top red grape, but in this case it’s to do with the man who founded Thompson Estate, Peter Thompson. Apart from being a vigneron of note, Mr Thompson is also a cardiologist. The Specialist label is like the next step up wine-wise, a reserve wine without the name. The 2020 is one intense three-year-old. Aromas are concentrated and deep in dried herbs, black fruits, oregano, thyme, vanilla, cocoa, smoke. Noteworthy tannins frame the palate – sapid and fine – finishing on a note of astringent, dusty dryness. It’s playing its cards close to its vinous chest in that it’s not ready to reveal all just yet. That will come later. This is one wine with time on its side, a lot of time.