Varney Wines Fiano 2020

A very impressive Fiano here although one which breaks the mould for this variety. Winemaker Alan Varney has taken an almost Chardonnay route with barrel ferment, ageing and regular lees stirring which has created a much more savoury expression of this Southern Italian grape variety – I loved it and hard to stop at just one glass.

Bright mid straw in colour, it opens up with mandarin peel, citrus and floral aromas that are nicely focussed and tight – and probably still a little closed. There are also nice touches of almond meal and cashew old oak in the background. The palate then has great impact with its zesty acidity exploding out of the blocks well supported by more citrus, acacia and melon flavours plus spicy oak. The palate is textural while also long and streamlined. A very impressive Aussie Fiano which shows the potential of Langhorne Creek with this variety.