Carlei Green Vineyards Cuvée Stephen Thomson Chardonnay 2016

The “green” in Sergio Carlei’s choice of brand name, Green Vineyards, is reference to his strong belief in the viability of ‘green’ viticulture, that is, organic and biodynamic grape growing. He produces wines generally devoid of too much winemaking artefact. It’s all about the fruit. And he likes bottle ageing before release, hence, his 2016 chardonnay comes with a degree of development. As a six-year-old, though, it’s looking pretty smart with the structure to keep going for a little while longer. Ripe tropical fruits – melon, peach, nectarine – hold forth with some citrus, baked apple and almond mealiness in play. It’s not a shouter, it’s quite demure, working to its own tune which is about well-composed, sunny fruit with flint and oyster-shell flavours matched to an enduring texture. Could easily be over-looked by louder wines, but retains a presence in the glass.