Clandestine Vineyards Chardonnay 2021
- 93
- $30
- Drink by: 2022-2028
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Lovely Chardonnay from Margaret River, the Wilyabrup sub-region. From a single vineyard, the Knotting Hill Vineyard (cue the Julia Roberts/Hugh Grant jokes), which was planted in 1990, exclusively to the gin gin clone. The grapes received an eight hour maceration on skins prior to pressing and a light settling. A percentage of the ‘cloudy juice’ is barrel fermented, the rest in small stainless steel. Ten months in French oak barriques, 25% new French Mercurey oak barriques with the rest a mix of 2nd and 3rd use. Again, the second vintage of this wine for the team, with 4,800 bottles.
Deep yellow in colour, the nose shows admirable restraint. Mineral, citrus, spices, the citrus then moving into lemony touches. Nicely textured and almost seemingly exhibiting hints of tannins on the finish, this is a lean and elegant style, with well-integrated oak and some good complexity already evident. This is a pleasure now and will continue to be for at least the next five to six years.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
