Domaine Naturaliste Artus Chardonnay 2022

100% single vineyard Gin Gin fruit, whole bunch press, natural yeast, full malolactic fermentation, 40% new oak, battonage in barrel for 10 months and unfined. It takes two to tango, and the Artus is the yang to the yin of the Purus. Wild perfume, toasty, flinty, buttery, and bold, yet not at the sacrifice of harmony and balance. There’s ample shape here – width and weight, plenty of textural interest and a French bakery of deliciousness set in the heart of Tokyo. Toasted nougat, pasty shell, meringue, and stone fruit packed frangipane pie. Swiftly followed by hints of umami, briny green olives, cheese rind, oat crackers, dried nori flakes and miso paste. The, sometimes-forceful, Gin Gin acid sets the pace, but it’s more of a quick step than a fervent jive thanks to skilled winemaking and a cornucopia of spice, toast and wild fearlessness.