Forest Hill Vineyard Block 5 Cabernet Sauvignon 2023

The Forest Hill Block 5 is one of the most underrated Cabernet Sauvignons in Australia. Each vintage I cannot believe that this isn’t a sold-out wine soon after release. It should be, though perhaps this is also a sign of Cabernet’s wavering appeal as a variety at the moment. Yields are low due to the dry-grown, gnarly old vines (1975 planting) in this vineyard. Just 25% new oak lets the fruit speak with clarity, though this is young and still snuggled in tight. Purple and juicy red fruits, hibiscus flower, dark choc toast, and saltbush follow through to fine and multitudinous silty tannins. Acidity glows and shimmers on the horizon like sunrise. Make no mistake – we aren’t talking about the brash blush of a fiery sunset. This has fantastic persistence with a savoury, dried eucalypt finish and length in the earthen spectrum. Terracotta dust, salted liquorice, black plum, concentrated red Xmas spice, violets and crushed slate…there’s so much. A portrait of Cabernet, albeit with a slightly wild beauty. An embrace of a wine that glides over the palate. If you must, decant and drink now, though hold it a little longer before opening if you can.