Matt has earnt a reputation locally for some experimentation and innovation with his semillons – this information came to me from one of the region’s eminence gris, and was meant very much out of respect (there are times when innovation does not lead to the results one might wish – this is not one of them). With this Wild Semillon, Matt has fermented a portion on skins (very much in the fashion one might with red wines) with natural yeasts. The aim is to make a semillon with texture and complexity.
This is more forceful in style and in its flavours. It stands up with minerals and citrus, plus lemongrass. There is some complexity and it has an appealing slippery texture, which is very much a highlight of this wine, then fills out on the palate with bright acidity. For me, drink over the next two to three years. This is a curious one. Certainly, an extremely pleasing wine, but I’m not sure it has quite decided what it wants to be. Or perhaps that is just me. Good food style too.