Gundog Estate Wild Semillon 2021
- 91
- $35
- Drink by: 2021 - 2024
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Matt has earnt a reputation locally for some experimentation and innovation with his semillons – this information came to me from one of the region’s eminence gris, and was meant very much out of respect (there are times when innovation does not lead to the results one might wish – this is not one of them). With this Wild Semillon, Matt has fermented a portion on skins (very much in the fashion one might with red wines) with natural yeasts. The aim is to make a semillon with texture and complexity.
This is more forceful in style and in its flavours. It stands up with minerals and citrus, plus lemongrass. There is some complexity and it has an appealing slippery texture, which is very much a highlight of this wine, then fills out on the palate with bright acidity. For me, drink over the next two to three years. This is a curious one. Certainly, an extremely pleasing wine, but I’m not sure it has quite decided what it wants to be. Or perhaps that is just me. Good food style too.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
