Henschke The Wheelwright Vineyard Shiraz 2021

The late Cyril Henschke was a strong believer in the quality of Eden Valley Shiraz. The vines he planted in 1968 are now officially designated “old vines” and they contribute some old vine magic – in league with a top vintage year – to deliver a quality wine. Deep red purple in colour. Aromas are lifted, beguilingly aromatic, in violet, black cherry, plum and cassis, dried herbs and spice. It’s a smooth transition to the palate where spices dwell with berries, dark chocolate, anise, sage and earth, all beautifully framed in fine-grained tannins. Oak comes with a higher level of French oak than the previous release – 82% French and 18% American – and helps define the wine and yet is so integrated, even at this early stage. It’s a good sign, for good, natural balance now will equally assure the early drinker, as well as those who like their Shiraz with bottle age. And this wine will age. But a final word about the aromatics which deserve special mention. With time in the glass, they simply bring a new layer of interest, a new level of enjoyment.

Jeni Port

Wine critic at Winepilot

Jeni Port is one of Australia’s top wine communicators. Based in Melbourne, Jeni created the first wine column in the (then) Sun News-Pictorial before moving over to The Age and becoming that paper’s longest-serving wine writer. Over the years she has written for most Australian wine magazines and these days calls WinePilot home. She is also a Tasting Panel member on the Halliday Wine Companion. She was named Wine Communicator of the Year and Legend of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival in 2014 and in 2018 Legend of the Vine. She is a founding board member of Australian Women In Wine and is the co-deputy chair of Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards and China’s Wine List of the Year Awards.

Wine writer and critic