Hesketh Jimi’s Ferment Fumé Blanc 2021
- 92
- $34
- Drink by: 2022-2023
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Many winemakers are finally realising that not only is basic Savvy a touch boring, it is tough to compete with the Kiwis. The answer? Making better, more complex wines. Simple! The team fermented the grapes, sourced from Mount Gambier, in a single open-topped fermenter in the manner they might do with red varieties, though no skin contact. Then ten months on yeast lees in old French hogsheads. 25% went through malolactic fermentation. Loved the rationale behind making this wine. Some backpackers from the Loire Valley worked in the vineyards and made the suggestions on how to do all this. James ‘Jimi’ Lienert, the winemaker, said that “it sounded ridiculous, so I had to try it”. It has clearly worked!!
Golden lemon in colour. Tropical notes to the fore here, with mango and passion fruit. A lovely, lifted aromatic nose. This is a Savvy for those not enamoured of the variety. Ripe and generous. Moving to the palate, soft and voluptuous, with a seductive texture. Hints of orange rinds emerge with the tropical notes. Even though the complexity suggests that this might benefit from time in the cellar, the appealing freshness makes it a drink now for me. Excellent value.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
