Hewitson The Mad Hatter Shiraz 2021

Arrives under cork, which may or may not be related to the higher price point. A blend of the best Shiraz of the Hewitson vineyards in any vintage, The Mad Hatter ’21 is turned up in volume and turned on in tannin structure and oak which shows potential for a super Barossa Shiraz. However, that potential needs time to be resolved, so some further time in bottle is recommended. Full, expressive bouquet devoted to black berries, stewed plums, baked earth, a touch of bramble and briar with winter greens and cigar box oak. The tannins are key here. They arrest the palate and sit separate to the fruit and oak at this time. However, they bring necessary structure to the richly layered and textured wine and will meld. Special mention here to the delightful injection of spice with Aussie bush notes, anise and pepper – generous and, oh so, Barossan.