Hickinbotham Brooks Road Shiraz 2022

Pink peppercorn spice melds nicely with blueberry, blackberry and blood plum fruits to start. Some time in the glass draws out an iodine-laced minerality, adding lift and further savoury appeal, along with pan juices, smoky bacon, cacao powder, dried herbs and black olive tapenade. This is very sophisticated, unfurling to reveal excellent poise and elegant complexity. At three years of age, there’s still a youthful exuberance to the palate – it’s elegant and intense with notes of plum, fine cedar, smoky bacon, cacao powder, black cherry, black olive and bitter dark chocolate. It all glides through the mouth before firm-but-fine grainy tannins anchor the wine and add textural dimension, framing it to a long finish. The bitter notes persist. This is well made, with oak present but integrated, making for a McLaren Vale Shiraz that’s true to its place while maintaining elegance and detail.