Moss Wood Chardonnay 2025

To paraphrase a former Prime Minister, life is not meant to be fair. Otherwise, why would Margaret River have yet another compelling vintage of such quality, following on from the stellar 2023, although to be honest, it has been a very long time since the region had a vintage that wasn’t exceptional. If there is a complaint about 2025, it is that it is perhaps not as generous with its yields as the region often is. Anyway, what we have here is a Chardonnay of the very highest quality. Such a thing is not uncommon in the region, but that does not make it any less welcome and anyone with a case of this in the cellar is going to drink very well over the next dozen years. The grapes were whole bunch pressed and then, during fermentation, transferred to French oak barriques, 48% of which were new. The wine remained maturing in those barrels for the following year and a half. Straw gold, this is youthful but intense with notes of quince, rockmelon, grapefruit, lemon curd, peaches, almonds, oatmeal and even a hint of gunflint. Supple, luscious and quite gorgeously textured, the wine has amazing length. It might seem impossible, but it lifts even further on the palate. A stunning Margaret River Chardonnay which will continue to astonish over the next decade. Love this.

Ken Gargett

Contributor at Winepilot

Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.

Wine writer and critic