Gundog Estate Indomitus Rutilus 2021
- 92
- $45
- Drink by: 2022-2030
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Although my score for this final member of the Indomitus trio (the name really does sound like it should be the title for a Russell Crow film) is the lowest of the three, by a wafer-thin margin, I’d be prepared to wager a case for this wine that in time, it tops the lot. It just needs time. Everything old is new again. Regional blending like this was not uncommon back in the days of winemakers like Maurice O’Shea. It worked then, so why not now? Hunter Shiraz with some Yarra Pinot Noir. The Shiraz is from the 50-year-old Will’s Hill Vineyard at Pokolbin and the 20% contribution from the Yarra Pinot is from George’s Vineyard at Seville.
Bright magenta in colour, the nose is, not surprisingly, more Hunter Shiraz than Pinot at this stage. Red fruits, cranberries, dry herbs, cigar box notes, this is supple in texture though perhaps a little broad on the palate at the moment. Good length and soft, cushiony tannins. For me, it will drink well for eight years at least, although Matt suggests five. I think he is selling it short, but we would both agree that it will also drink beautifully right now.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
