Oakridge 864 Winery Block Oakridge Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2023
- 97
- $96
- Drink by: 2025-2045
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Once or twice in the past, I have wondered whether or not the top Oakridge wines were simply too perfect, too correct, and perhaps lacking a fraction of soul. I can only assume that I must have been having a senior moment, well before they are due. James Brown would be proud of the soul in these wines. All of the grapes here are destemmed and after fermentation, the wine spends fifteen months maturing in French oak barrels, 35% new. Dark purple/maroon in colour, there are intense notes on the nose. There is good oak integration but we also have some briary characters, tobacco leaves, a touch of earth, cloves, black fruits and charcuterie. There is a lovely aroma of cigar boxes as well, think Cohiba Siglo VI. Supple and silky in texture, there is impressive length and immaculate balance. On the palate we see notes of cassis, mocha and coffee beans emerging. Have no fear of cellaring this for at least twenty years.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
