Parker Estate SBW King Kong Fumé Blanc 2022
- 91
- $28
- Drink by: 2023-2028
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Fascinating stuff here. First, what on earth are we supposed to expect with a wine named ‘King Kong’? The resurrection of the description, ‘Fumé Blanc’ is also interesting. The team note how the wine is inspired by the Sancerre styles from the Loire Valley, but it was Californian Robert Mondavi who adopted this name for his Sauvignon Blanc, when it was ‘worked’, often seeing time in oak rather than the usual simple tank fermented/aged style. The fruit here has come from a single vineyard at Kongorong, to the southwest of Mt Gambier. Fermentation is in open fermenters, off skins. The winemaking involves ‘oxidative treatment, natural malolactic fermentation and maturation in French oak for 7 months’ with maturation on lees. A very pale green/yellow. This is Sauvignon Blanc but not as you know it. Notes of citrus, lemon curd and a minerally backing, the wine is tightly structured yet offers a lovely pillowy texture. A wine of medium length, already exhibiting some complexity, enjoy it over the next three to five years.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
